Catherine Holstein is opening her second Khaite store in Manhattan in a matter of days. Its Madison Avenue address shaped this pre-fall collection, at least in part. During a preview, she pointed to a crocodile bag (real not faux) and said her uptown customers have been requesting high-end pieces of the sort, though this one will be offered on a made-to-order basis only, “so there’s no wastage,” she explained. She’s also working with Inversa, a Florida company that ethically sources python skin from invasive Burmese snakes in the Everglades, and with artisans in Madagascar who hand make the summery woven totes with leather handles you see in these photos.
Holstein herself remains a downtown girl, and it’s her personal taste for fashions of the ’80s and ’90s and a broody palette that powers this brand. An oversized leather bomber with exaggerated epaulettes and pockets is exemplary here, while a t-shirt with a cartoon graphic shows off a looser, more playful aspect than we’ve seen from her. But the really interesting developments are the suits with collarless jackets and trim, slightly tapered trousers that look like they could go to Albany or Washington DC, or maybe the courthouse here in New York City. Not conservative per se, but buttoned-up in a surprising way.
For the evening we’re back below 14th Street again. Holstein’s long lean strapless dresses are designed with a front panel that slouches asymmetrically across the torso, like movable sculpture. These are more art crowd than power attorney. Another new addition this season is Khaite optical frames made in collaboration with Oliver Peoples.