This article was originally published on Condé Nast Traveller UK. It has been updated with new information since its original publish date
Pushing open the blue and yellow shutter doors, the insistent hum of Ubud’s thick traffic dissipates, replaced with the gentle gurgle of a fountain flowing into a pond. I peer into the water and a gaggle of koi fish rise up to greet me, hopeful for a treat. A familiar musky scent passes over—I trace the source back to a little Hindu offering on the patio; a carefully folded coconut palm leaf basket housing a fluffy cloud of flower petals, finished with an incense stick. I was hopeful for an authentic Balinese place to stay and here, I think I’ve found it.
I’m at the Spirit Villa, a traditional wooden joglo about a 15-minutes drive from Ubud’s hectic town center. There’s no shortage of beautiful Balinese Airbnbs in this part of town but I would be spending this portion of my trip alone, so had no need for a sprawling treehouse or luxury five-bedroom villa. Instead I wanted something small and cozy, central so I didn’t spend my limited sightseeing time in the car, and with interiors that felt classically Balinese—arched roofs, hand-carved designs, and plenty of the colorful brights you see decorating every temple you zip by on the road. I wanted a pool to cool off in, and it had to feel quiet and safe, given I’d be on my own.
This place checks all the boxes. It’s totally bijou, comprising a bedroom, bathroom, and an outdoor kitchen and sitting area overlooking the garden and pool. The interiors are cute as can be, with duck egg blues covering the doors, terrace beams, wall panels and window frames twinned with buttercup-bright yellows on the sofa cushions and parasols lining the pool. In the bedroom, hand-carved intricate patterns thread across the tops of the walls before blending into traditional Indonesian curved ceilings featuring a sunburst fan of beams.
Inside, there’s a comfy king-size four poster bed finished with net drapes that function as a mosquito net, and a desk, TV, and dresser. Crucially, the air conditioning is good, which was much appreciated come bedtime. I loved the bathroom, which has a natural oasis feel with flagstone floors, a big raw stone sink, and a rainfall shower. The roof is designed so that the shower and bath are set under open skies and, when plonked in the massive bathtub, makes a great place to stargaze.