American Travelers Are Missing Out on This Underrated European City—but This Palace Hotel Could Change That

Seventeen years after it closed its doors, Brussels’ legendary Hotel Astoria reopened last December as the Corinthia Brussels. The latest launch from the Maltese hospitality group that counts Corinthia London and the new Surrey, A Corinthia Hotel in New York, among its properties, there’s a real buzz that this city of 1.25 million—the capital of Belgium and the home of the European Parliament—finally has the luxury address it has been lacking.

Commissioned by King Leopold II for the Brussels International Exposition of 1910, in its heyday the Astoria hosted the likes of Salvador Dalí, James Joyce, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Winston Churchill, and the Shah of Iran. Corinthia, which took over the project in 2016, enlisted a team of architects and historians to bring every historical detail, including the gold leaf on the listed Louis XVI façade and the original color scheme in the high-ceilinged lobby, back to life.

There’s a real sense in Brussels that this opening is also a talisman for the city, which is too often passed over by travelers in favor of Paris or Amsterdam—both less than two hours away by train. “It’s Brussels’ new dawn,” said Filip Boyen, Corinthia interim general manager (and formerly CEO of Luxury Hotels of the World), over coffee in Palm Court, the lobby lounge area. We’re sitting under a sublime stained-glass skylight that has been painstakingly recreated from photographs of the original. Outside, it’s a moody Brussels sky, yet the big potted palms, floral motifs on the carpet and sage-green and pearl-white color scheme ensure the lofty space is full of light.

Boyen, who hails from Belgium, isn’t the only one to tell me that it’s time travelers discovered how creative, vibrant, and energetic Brussels is. For that, you don’t even need to leave the 126-room property: some of the best talent in the country has been assembled under this roof, including a duo of chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants, David Martin and Christophe Hardiquest; mixology superstar Hannah Van Ongevalle; and the high-end, handcrafted Belgian designer brands like Maison La Collection on sale in Coutume, the on-site boutique.

Hopes are high that the Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria Brussels, as it is known in full, will become Belgium’s first palace hotel—elevating it to a similar status as Paris’s Le Meurice and Plaza Athénée, among others. This hotel is designed to draw leisure travelers to the city, or entice business travelers to linger in town longer. There are also the locals who have their own memories from the storied address: none more so than the King, Philippe of Belgium, who held his wedding reception to wife, Mathilde, here in 1999. Plans are also underway to restart the classical concerts under the original crystal chandeliers of the Salon Elisabeth, once the highlight of the city’s social scene.

With this careful restoration, Corinthia has struck an ideal balance between old and new right in the heart of one of Europe’s lesser-known capitals. Here’s my complete review of Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria Brussels.

The Rooms

When the Corinthia Brussels is fully open in June, there will be 90 rooms, 31 suites, and five Penthouses across six floors. During my visit, only the first and second-floor rooms were opened—although additional floors are gradually becoming available for reservations.

The Corinthia Group called upon GA Design, the firm behind not only Corinthia London but leading hotels like the Atlantis the Royal in Dubai and Austria’s Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, to imagine a design that blends heritage and modern design. The result is a calming palette of soft greys, rust golds, and royal blues with bespoke artwork by Belgian artists hanging on the walls. My 775-square-foot Grand Deluxe Suite on the first floor felt like my own apartment in the center of the city, complete with a living room, walk-in closet, and Diptyque toiletries in the marble bathroom.

Alongside three categories of rooms (starting at the 323-square-foot Superior Room up to the 450-square-foot Grand Deluxe Room), the property offers a choice of six suites, the largest being a 1130-square-foot Grand Suite. Still to open, the signature suites on the sixth—and top—floor have wrap-around terraces and views over the Brussels skyline; the largest is more than 3,500 square feet. Each of these Penthouse Suites will draw from a different theme: one is inspired by the great Belgian masters, Bruegel and Rubens, while another is named for the Brontë sisters, who once lived in this neighborhood.

Food and Drink

The property’s flagship restaurant is David Martin’s 38-seat Palais Royal, in a grand reception room just off the main lobby. Martin, who runs the two-starred restaurant La Paix just three and a half miles down the road, describes the menu here as a culinary voyage inspired by his global travels. Our ten-course degustation menu is infused with Japanese and Italian influences: a delicate fish cake with nori flakes and a reimagined gnocchi, made with potatoes and rice. “The idea is to surprise diners, who might expect a menu of classics in such a setting,” Martin tells me. There’s also a divine course of shredded Belgian endive served atop a swirling spinach and hibiscus sauce. The menu is rounded out by three dessert courses, including a delicious soufflé inside a scooped-out lemon.

Across the lobby, Hardiquest’s Le Petit Bon Bon is the perfect example of acclaimed chefs opening more relaxed brasseries. There’s a buzzy Monday night vibe and an open kitchen dishing up a menu of Belgian classics such as vol-au-vents and steak au poivre. I pick and mix a selection of plates: oysters au gratin, Liège-style meatballs, and shrimp croquettes, accompanied by a crisp Belgian white wine—another of this country’s little-known talents. Palm Court has an all-day dining menu of lobby classics and a delightful sweet trolley of too-pretty-to-eat pastries for afternoon tea.

The bar, Under the Stairs, is still a work in progress although Hannah Van Ongevalle promises a cocktail list full of surprises. “I want to make people step out of their comfort zone,” she told me. “I want them to say they had the best cocktail ever and that they can only come back to Under the Stairs if they want to try it again.”

Amenities and Experiences

Brussel’s largest hotel spa area has been dug out beneath the ground floor of the building. Also in this new space is a fitness centre and gym. Another delightful addition is the presence of celebrated local florist Daniel Ost, whose street-level store is a colorful explosion of perfumed flowers. When the florists aren’t busy crafting new bouquets for Palm Court and the Salon Elisabeth breakfast room, they will soon start organizing wreath-making and floral arrangement classes for interested guests.

The concierge team is on hand for recommendations of art galleries (Almine Rech or the Xavier Hufkens Gallery are favorites) or shopping areas (Rue Antoine Dansaert for jewelry and clothes) to visit, but can also arrange exclusive experiences for guests, such as a private tour of Maison Delvaux, the world’s oldest luxury leather goods company. Excursions to Antwerp, Bruges, and Ghent, all close enough to be visited in a day, can also be organized.

The Spa

At 13,000 square feet in size, you won’t find a similar spa experience in a Brussels hotel—and it’s the perfect cocooning space for those cool winter days that make this city such a top spot for a cozy break. Partnering with French cosmetic brand Sisley, there are seven private treatment rooms as well as a large sauna and steam room. A wide stone staircase leads to a 29-foot lap pool and a heated vitality pool with a variety of jets. I like that both are big enough that you can have your own space, even when others are using it.

The spa is an entirely new space, but the historical narrative of the area has nonetheless been carefully woven into the design, which draws inspiration from the local neighborhood, Notre-Dame-aux-Neiges (Our Lady of the Snow). The swimming pool is painted white, while the lace-making heritage of the quarter is reflected in the intricate patternwork behind the reception and on the walls.

Family-friendly Offerings

My nine-year-old daughter, who was travelling with me, loved the popcorn maker and Tintin comics to read in our suite, as well as the quintessentially Belgian waffles for breakfast. Her favourite part of the stay, however, was a pre-dinner swim in the lap pool (children are welcome in the subterranean spa between 8 a.m. and 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. and 8 p.m.). Younger guests are also catered for in the restaurants, from Palm Court’s dedicated kids’ menu to the bespoke way the team at Palais Royal were able to whip up a kid-friendly meal of veal and mashed potato for my daughter while I enjoyed the degustation menu. There are 31 connecting rooms across the property, and I’m told a dedicated kids’ program is in the works.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Once fully open, the property will have eight accessible rooms. All are located near the elevator, with a large accessible shower, walk-in wardrobe, and sufficient space to move with a wheelchair.

As well as energy savings made by harnessing residual heat from the kitchen and the data rooms to warm the rooms, small sustainable touches I noted are the compostable room cards and a focus on local produce—even swapping out ubiquitous Heinz ketchup and mayonnaise for beloved local alternative, Bister.

Location

The tagline for the reborn property is “Brussel’s most fabulous address,” and it’s hard to argue with its location: less than half a mile from the Royal Palace and surrounded by embassies, museums, ministries, and historical Art Nouveau façades, the design movement born in the city. Classic sites, like the gilded, UNESCO-listed, Grand-Place square and the terraced Botanical Gardens, are within easy walking distance, as is the Comic Art Museum, which celebrates Belgium’s rich comic book legacy. Brussels Airport is a 30-minute drive away. Brussels-Midi railway station, the terminus for both the Eurostar service from London St. Pancras and Paris Gare du Nord, is 1.7 miles from the hotel. Brussels Central station, which has a direct service to the airport, is a half-mile walk from the hotel. 

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Rooms at the Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria Brussels start at €690 ($721) per night. Corinthia also has its own loyalty program, Discovery, which is part of the Global Hotel Alliance and gets guests “Discovery Dollars” to earn toward future stays.