Dušan’s showroom is an oasis of calm, undisturbed by Milan’s bustle— plush carpets, pale walls, a bonsai garden framed by hieratic museum-worthy pieces of ancient art. A rather unconventional setting for displaying clothing, it feels more like the sanctuary of an art collector of peculiar taste than that of a bona fide fashion designer.
But then, Dušan himself is an eccentric character—one who has deliberately carved out a niche beyond the mainstream fashion discourse. Self-funded and fiercely independent, he has resisted the lures of catwalks, advertising campaigns, and inner coteries, refusing to conform to the industry’s often crushing rules. Though his budgets are nowhere near the billions of mega brands, his business remains solid; he caters to the same high-spending clientele as Hermès and Loro Piana, from which he sources most of his fabrics.
His commitment to exceptional quality is unwavering, and he remains devoted to the minimalist ethos he honed in the years assisting Zoran, the Serbian-American designer known for his imperious opinions, reclusive nature, and influential talent. Zoran was an early advocate of the ultra-luxurious, loose-fitting, logo-free, and supremely chic look—one that the Olsens cite as a key inspiration for The Row. Dušan considers himself Zoran’s only legitimate heir.
His tightly edited collections transition seamlessly from season to season, staying true to the fundamentals of his unadorned, one-size-fits-all style. For fall he explored an opulent selection of double and felted cashmeres, fine Tasmanias and vicuñas, complemented by a soft corduroy lined with contrasting taffeta—“for a hint of sporty chic, though far more chic than sporty,” as he put it. Also leaning into the oxymoronic minimalist/opulent dynamic he favors was a dolman-sleeved, funnel-neck sweater crafted from over three pounds of ultra-soft cashmere yarn, offered in three preternaturally subtle shades of gray. A sweeping, unlined, bathrobe-style wrap coat in herringbone cashmere jersey—a malleable, elastic version of the fabric—had a plush, enveloping quality. But don’t call it ‘luxurious,’ a word Dušan avoids. “It’s understated but molto elegante,” he declared. Much like his mentor Zoran, Dušan has a flair for the imperious.
Though utterly reluctant to introduce novelty in his trend-averse range, this season he offered a cashmere bouclé field shirt-jacket, and a cropped vest inspired by a classic trucker denim blouson. A bright saffron yellow unexpectedly offset his signature palette of neutrals, white, and black. But it may not return next season—especially if it becomes trendy. Dušan can be peremptory in his style diktats. “I don’t follow where fashion is going,” he said. “My style will remain the same until my last breath.”