The rose is popping up all over for next season, but for Magda Butrym the flower and its symbolism are familiar territory, a visual cue for a brand founded, just over a decade ago, with the mission of redefining romanticism in fashion. The Polish-born designer was quickly recognized for her work, landing a spot among the semi-finalists for the 2018 LVMH Prize.
To embark on a new decade, the designer presented a collection she considers her most personal to date, and she used her full name—Magdalena—as its title. The rose returned in strong prints: red on royal blue for a long dress with a trailing panel, and in whorls of fabric placed strategically on a neckline or at the hip.
Butrym makes a point of keeping local artisans busy, and she responded to next fall’s obsession with tactility through sculptural pieces showcasing craft—hand-knitting, crochet, embroidery — by independent artisans in her homeland. Taking inspiration from radical sculptures by the late artist Magdalena Abakanowicz and the work of contemporary artist Paulina Olowska, she sent out time-intensive looks that leaned into her Slavic roots. One of the most graphic examples of this was a minidress with a sleeveless, black bodice and a white, fringed and crocheted tutu; others included bud-like constructions for skirts textured with wooly trims, and nods to Polish traditions of lace, crochet and tapestry.
Interspersed among the folkloric references, however, were several pieces that neatly incorporated more current trends; among them panier skirts, enveloping scarves and shawls, and retro-glamorous bathrobe coats in faux fur. The touchstones were clear: a lashing of Audrey Hepburn in a column dress with a sculpted bodice, a shearling coat slipped over a soft grey tracksuit in the manner of an influencer’s go-to travel outfit, a menswear-inspired pin striped suit with power shoulders. While those didn’t exactly move the needle, they will likely prove plenty commercial with the designer’s base—one that’s only set to blossom once Butrym opens a pop-up shop in Manhattan and launches her collaboration with H&M next month.