Viviano’s fall collection took place on an old-fashioned suspended runway under a gigantic static disco ball in the grand setting of Tokyo’s Yebisu Garden Place. Viviano Sue, who is an old-fashioned romantic, titled it “Colpo di Fulmine” (an Italian phrase that translates to lightning strike and is used to mean love at first sight), and so began a procession of the (mostly) wearable and whimsical designs the Tokyo-based brand has built its name on.
There were silver lamé and polka dot blouses with wire pussy bows, flouncy dresses with frilly necks printed with grandma-ish florals, herringbone and leather jackets with tea rose appliqués, sparkly bouclé or sequined dresses, and pencil skirts and pants made of ruffled tulle. The cacophony of fabrics, textures, colors, and silhouettes felt fun but chaotic, like Viviano had thrown a bit of everything at the wall to see what would stick. Speaking to the designer backstage, it seemed that’s exactly what he’d done. “We wanted to break out of our box and follow our instincts and just put things together,” he said happily.
Some of it worked well (the charmingly old-fashioned florals and the sharper tailoring) and some of it didn’t (the baggy pleather pants), but overall it was another collection that spoke to the joy of dressing up. The final three looks were gigantic caped dresses with panniers that bobbed and swayed down the runway like humongous cakes. Made with 50 meters of organza, they moved with surprising effortlessness. “It’s a tight dress inside and a huge dress outside, and it’s really light and easy to wear,” he said. As all of the looks came out for the finale, Mina’s 1966 ballad Mi sei scoppiato dentro il cuore (in English, you broke my heart) played, and the disco ball began to turn.
Sue’s intent is always simple. Each season he talks of spreading joy, making people happy, and about how fashion should be about freedom of expression—no overwrought intellectualism, just fun and frippery. There’s power in that, especially at a time in fashion when every collection, red carpet look, or designer move inspires a rabid response (have you read the comments sections lately?). “I think people should just enjoy fashion more,” said Sue, gesticulating grandly. “You don’t have to care so much what people think and what people say about you. Just follow your instincts, take what you like and wear it, and you’re gonna be happy.” That kind of Pollyanna earnestness will inspire some to stick two fingers down their throats. Others will be wearing Viviano.