In the leadup to the annual Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva in April—the world’s largest trade show dedicated to watches—much ado is made beforehand about which timepieces Patek Philippe will release within its sprawling space at the Palexpo, the large venue where the world’s best watch brands convene to unveil their new product each year. But outside those hallowed halls, Patek Philippe also hosts an event for its Rare Handcrafts at its museum in the city center on TK. The pieces unveiled here are the fruit of the handcraftsmanship that its métiers d’art artisans execute each year in stunning detail. This year, the watchmaker is unveiling 78 pieces that include 23 of its instantly recognizable dome table clocks, as well as one desk clock, 10 pocket watches, and 44 Calatrava and Gold Ellipse wristwatches.
Patek Philippe Reference 5738/50J-011 “Yellow-Crested Cockatoo” Golden Ellipse wristwatch
Patek Philippe
Today, the revered Swiss watchmaker has offered a peak at just two of the one-of-a-kind and limited-edition creations that will debut at its Genevan salon next month. A reference 5738/50J-011 “Yellow-Crested Cockatoo” Golden Ellipse wristwatch and a reference 2019M-001 “Skiing in Days Gone By” domed table clock. Both are meticulously and painstakingly executed in cloisonné enamel—a traditional decorative Swiss watchmaking technique where gold wires are placed in a design and filled in with enamel to create a scene. On top of this enamel, each is delicately hand painted. The Ellipse required 90 cm of gold wire shaped by hand and 20 shades of opaque and opalescent enamel, while the table clock used 16.07 m of gold wire in three different widths and 45 shade of mainly translucent enamel mixed with some semi-translucent or opaque versions of the material.
Patek Philippe Reference 2019M-001 “Skiing in Days Gone By”
Patek Philippe
Both the Cockatoo and Gstaad skiing themes recreate scenes from the past, albeit centuries apart. The bird is a Swiss take on a painting on silk by 18th-century Japanese artist, Itô Jakuchi and only 10 collectors will get to own one. The one-of-a-kind domed clock—variations of which have been produced at the house since 1958—takes its cues from vintage Swiss graphic design from the 20th century. The center of the dial, unusually, is in leather to mimic elements that might be found in a Swiss ski chalet. It will likely find itself at home in a chalet in Gstaad or in the home of a client who is a regular at the elite ski area.
As some collectors begin to increasingly gravitate towards timepieces that will stand apart in a sea of sports watches (including Patek Philippe’s own Nautilus and now, the Cubitus), artist-led pieces such as these may find increased interest. Regardless, those already in-the-know about Patek Philippe’s rare handcrafts know they are incredibly special pieces and instant heirlooms. Those lucky enough to be in Geneva and see (and perhaps purchase) these pieces in real life will get an up-close look at some of the best Grand Feu cloisonné, grisaille, flinqué, paillonné and Fauré enamel that Switzerland has to offer in addition to hand engraving, hand guilloché, and gemsetting work.
