Spring’s Most Exciting White Wines Hail From This Unlikely Region

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With the preference for white wine over red on the rise, wine lovers have far more choices than ever in shops and on restaurant lists. While Chardonnay is still America’s white grape of choice and Sauvignon Blanc is narrowing the gap, varieties like Assyrtiko, Albariño, and Riesling are also far more popular than anyone could have imagined just a few years ago. Those on the inside track have already discovered white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a racy but complex regional style of white wine that is popping up on tables and shelves with increasing frequency.

Taking its name from the period in the 14th century when the papacy relocated to Avignon because of the politically volatile situation in Rome (Châteauneuf-du-Pape roughly translates to “the Pope’s New Castle” in English), this southern Rhône Valley region is best known for its reds. However, its exceptional white offerings are changing the narrative, showcasing the region’s potential to produce wines that are just as extraordinary in lighter, brighter expressions. There are six varieties permitted in the blend—Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Picpoul, and Picardan—but you may occasionally come across a single-varietal expression such Château Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, a limited-edition bottling from 90-year-old vines. While white-wine production is around 6 percent across the appellation and at most wineries, one producer, Château La Nerthe, devotes 10 percent of its vineyard acreage to white grapes and its white bottlings of CdP account for around 15 percent of total production.

White wines from the region’s stony soils are experiencing a renaissance right now, yet they have a longstanding history as well. Rémi Jean, winemaker and general manager at Château La Nerthe, tells Robb Report that the Avignon popes were fond of the domain’s white wines, and that they were also exported worldwide starting in the 18th century. Since 1986, the estate has replanted part of the existing vineyard to double the surface area with white-grape varieties, in particular Roussanne. “White Rhône wines have seen strong growth, with volume up 13 percent in 2024 [according to] SipSource,” says Marcelo Aguero, CEO of Kobrand, Château La Nerthe’s importer. “It is driven by consumer interest in wines of authenticity and structure that pair well with lighter cuisine options.”

Kobrand isn’t the only importer seeing an increase in the category. Alex Milligan, president of David Milligan Selections, with whom we tasted and chatted at Wine Paris, says while historically sales of Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc were quite low, they have jumped by around 50 percent over the last four years. Milligan explains that although consumers are often intimidated by new categories, there is already a familiarity with the AOC’s red wines, so their curiosity about the white really works in its favor. He imports the wines of Domaine du Vieux Lazaret, which produces 8 to 10 percent of white wine each vintage. Domaine owner Florence Quiot says, “White Châteauneuf-du-Pape is quite unknown, but it’s a wonderful wine to discover.” Her 2023 is in the market now, and she says vintage boasts complexity and balance without sacrificing freshness.

Like with many regions or varietals gaining a foothold with wine lovers, enthusiasm for CdP begins with sommeliers introducing it to diners. Aviram Turgeman, beverage director and partner of Chef Driven Hospitality in New York, which operates eateries such as Nice Matin and Acadia, pours Château La Nerthe CdP, which he describes as “savory and textured, with a structure defined by salinity and bitterness rather than acidity.” He loves to pair it with brandade de morue, a Provencal salt cod spread made with potatoes and garlic. “I think the intensity of the dish, the salt, garlic, and creamy texture work very well with subtle yellow fruit, green almond, and sea breeze notes.”

At Kent Hospitality Group, the parent company of Saga, Crown Shy, and Overstory in New York City, corporate wine director Kristen Goceljak is having a hard time keeping up with the growth in interest in white Châteauneuf. “We have actually sold out of a few Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc SKUs on our lists,” she says. “Historically these were hard wines to sell but in the past year or so they have certainly been more in demand.” Her restaurants currently offer Château de Beaucastel Blanc and Famille Isabel Ferrando Vieilles Clairettes, which she pours out of magnum. For guests unfamiliar with the category, she compares CdP blanc to “fuller-bodied, textured white wines with some riper stone and tropical fruit notes” and will offer it as an alternative to a traditional-style California Chardonnay for those seeking something different, especially alongside pork or chicken dishes.

Although it is fresh and vibrant in its youth, white Châteauneuf also matures exceptionally well. “It can develop some exceedingly complex earthiness with age. You can put an aged CdP blanc up against some similarly aged white Burgundy for a revelatory moment,” says Ted Rink, beverage director at Chicago’s BLVD Steakhouse. While many diners are not extremely familiar with whites from the Rhône, comparisons can be made to more frequently ordered varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Chardonnay. Rink also believes the category works well with seafood and white meat, especially those with weighty textures and rich flavors like scallops with beurre blanc or an earthy, rustic preparation of chicken or Cornish hen.

If you find yourself perusing a wine list or store shelves in pursuit of white CdP, look for Château La Nerthe. It has two different bottlings; besides its “standard” Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc, Rémi Jean also makes Clos de Beauvenir from a single vineyard covered with large pebbles carried down from the Alps by glacial movement. A blend of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, it has a delicate texture and flavors of apricot, ripe summer peach, marzipan, and river rock with a hint of eucalyptus on the close. Other producers to keep an eye out for are Domaine de Beaurenard, Domaine de la Solitude, and Domaine Du Vieux Télégraphe. Already highly sought after by collectors and sommeliers, Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc may be hard to get your hands on, but it is definitely worth the effort.

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