I’ve Been Visiting This 22-mile Barrier Island in Florida for 30 Years—and It’s One of the Last Unspoiled Places in the Sunshine State

On Florida’s Forgotten Coast, life moves slower and long expanses remain unmarred by development. With 22 miles of uncrowded beaches and a laid-back vibe, it’s easy to see why St. George Island perennially makes Dr. Stephen P. Leatherman’s (known as Dr. Beach) list of best beaches in the U.S. He lauded Dr. Julian G. Bruce St. George Island State Park’s tranquil setting and pristine conditions when it took top spot in 2023. Add to that secluded fishing spots, abundant shelling, seafood shacks that have been there since the 1980s, a retro ice cream parlor, and a historic lighthouse worth exploring, and you have all the ingredients for a relaxing getaway.

Just about two hours from the state capital, Tallahassee, this serene community remains one of the last bastions of Old Florida beach towns, where everyone knows each other. Devorah Kirschenbaum, local artist and owner of Art of Glass, came here on vacation from Long Island, New York, 11 years ago and fell in love, “We stayed three weeks, and as we crossed the bridge to leave, I started crying. I didn’t want to leave. It’s so peaceful. There are no high-rise hotels, no big-box stores, no crowds, and nothing over three stories to block the ocean view,” she said. “This place gets to you.”

Best Hotels & Resorts

St. George Inn

In operation since 1987, this blue-and-white inn feels lost in time, right down to the physical key you get at check-in. St. George Inn’s 20 guest rooms are spacious with nostalgic touches like antique dressers, elaborate mirrors, vintage art, and artifacts you would find in a fish camp (there was a shadowbox of nautical knots in my room). I recently stayed in the Neptune Room with a full kitchenette, a jacuzzi tub, rocking chairs just outside the door, and a wraparound porch. A wheelchair ramp and an ADA-compliant room are available for guests with mobility issues. The best part? The staff—all friendly, welcoming, and knowledgeable about the island. The one-sheeter they gave me with where to eat, rent equipment, and shop for groceries was invaluable. Visitors will also find this to be one of the most affordable properties on the island, even in the busy season.

Vacation Rentals

According to Kirschenbaum, vacation rentals represent the bulk of good accommodations on St. George Island. There’s VRBO and Vacasa, but for a more locally plugged-in stay, check out Collins Vacation Rentals. President and owner Alice Collins has facilitated vacations on the island since 1973. The collection of 250-plus rental homes features everything from luxurious seven-bedroom beach houses to Old Florida cottages. Some have pools, others have boat docking privileges, and many are pet-friendly. The company also offers rentals with ground-level entrances and elevators for guests with mobility issues.

Best Things to Do

Go to the beach.

The beach is the main attraction on St. George Island, and Kirschenbaum agrees, “You have to go to the beach. Dr. Beach decreed it the best beach, and it is,” she added. The soft, ginger-colored sand offers many spots to settle in with a good book, cast your fishing line, and snorkel in the shallows. Dr. Julian G. Bruce St. George Island State Park adds eight miles of uncrowded sand—some days, you may be the only person for miles. The secluded state park has ample opportunities for sunbathing, swimming, kayaking, fishing, hiking, camping, and generally immersing in nature. Kirschenbaum likes to “…take a bucket and walk to the end of the sand. Your bucket will be full of beautiful shells.”

Make some art.

The adorable Art of Glass boutique bursts with art when you walk through the door. Shelves stocked with ceramics, fusion glass, and jewelry crowd the front room, while photography and paintings hang on the walls leading to the two studios. Kirschenbaum opened Art of Glass 10 years ago and families come year after year to take classes together. Kirschenbaum shared, “Parents are so grateful to make something on vacation that is of the place and not made somewhere else. Many say it’s the first time they’ve all sat around a table without a device, talking to each other.” Some visitors bring their collected shells, sea glass, and bits of beach fodder. There are canvas, fusion glass, and painting classes. There are also mixed media kits with everything needed to make an art piece, including a link to a video tutorial.

Go fishing.

Whether you like to go deep-sea fishing or cast a line from shore, St. George Island is an angler’s paradise. Diverse species like pompano, Spanish mackerel, redfish, flounder, mahi-mahi, trout, and more swim in the waters surrounding the barrier island. Kirschenbaum added, “There’s world-class fishing here. We love Fortunas Family Charters. We always book them when we have friends and family in town.” Led by captains Dan and Sam Fortunas, the company offers family-friendly fishing, shelling, and sunset charters in half- or full-day trips.

Visit the Cape St. George Lighthouse and Museum.

It’s hard to miss this lighthouse and museum right in the town’s center, and you should plan a visit, according to Kirschenbaum. Built and rebuilt many times since 1833 due to beach erosion and a storm surge, the Cape St. George Light finally collapsed into the Gulf of Mexico in 2005. Three years later, the reconstructed lighthouse, built with original plans from the National Archives in Washington, D.C., opened to the public. A replica of the original keeper’s house opened in 2011 and houses a museum filled with artifacts that tell the story of the landmark. Per Kirschenbaum, every full moon, visitors and residents gather to climb to the top of the lighthouse and watch the sun set and moon rise as they lift a cider toast.

Best Restaurants

Paddy’s Raw Bar

If you come here looking for an Old Florida atmosphere, Paddy’s Raw Bar delivers. The former auto body shop still has the garage doors, plus picnic tables under cover and ample bar seating. A collection of signs emblazoned with locations near and far are painted by customers, lining the poles in the backyard and the interior walls alongside license plates and other island memorabilia. Live music fuels the spirited atmosphere. Kirschenbaum loves the ahi tuna bowl, but added, “You have to have oysters if you come here. All the seafood is fresh off the boats.” I can vouch for the tremendous local beer collection on tap and the salad with fresh hunks of Gulf shrimp, perfectly cooked with just enough dill. Guests can feel good about every dollar spent at Paddy’s, too, as they participate in many of the town’s fundraisers and spearhead the Pink Out, where they matched a grant for a mammogram machine for Franklin Needs this year.

Blue Parrot

You can’t beat the proximity to the sand; the Blue Parrot is the only beachfront restaurant for miles in either direction. Opened in 1987 as a beer and hot dog stand, it has become an expansive, oceanfront island staple for visitors and residents. Family photographs decorate the space above the wall-to-wall windows, and a palapa-topped tiki bar sits on the sand. Kirschenbaum always orders the Reuben, “We are from New York; we know good Reubens, and this is a good Reuben. Get the hushpuppies and a frozen Rum Runner, sit out on the deck on a summer day with your sandwich and drink in hand, and you are on vacation, even if you live here.” There are also meaty grouper sandwiches, smoked tuna dip, and the Sand Blaster, a tangy mango daiquiri with a sweet blackberry layer and 151 floate.

Weber’s Little Donut Shop

The line snaking around the block at 5 a.m. is a good indication Weber’s Little Donut Shop is a must-visit. Kirschenbaum waxes poetic about the coconut donut, but says all varieties are delicious. Another tip, according to her: You can score a front-of-line pass the shop raffles at local charity events to skip the wait.

Aunt Ebby’s Ice Cream

Opened in 1993, Aunt Ebby’s was the first place I took my son for an ice cream cone, and it still serves hand-dipped ice cream, sundaes, milkshakes, and cones I remember from 30 years ago. You can’t miss the bright-pink, turquoise, and lime-green two-story house one block back from the beach, and once inside, you’ll find delicious cold treats and a wall of photographs of customers over the years.

Best Time to Visit

Locals know the fall and winter tend to be the best times to visit St. George Island for temperate weather, smaller crowds, and lower humidity. “The 4th of July parade is the biggest, wettest water fight around. Pickup trucks with baby pools for refilling super soakers drive around. Water stations are positioned around town for people to refill. It’s a blast,” said Kirschenbaum. She also loves the Chili Cook-Off held in March every year,  “During the pandemic, we set up the stations at houses and in front of businesses, like a chili crawl. We kept that model. Now, people cook whatever they want, there’s live music, and visitors get to meet the locals.”

It’s important to remember hurricane season runs from June through November. Most storms occur in August and September, when the waters are warm. This means you can get a good deal on flights or accommodations during this window.

How to Get There

There’s no getting around it—St. George Island is remote. The closest commercial airports are Tallahassee International Airport and Northwest Florida Beaches International Airport in Panama City. Both are roughly a two-hour drive away, but there are plenty of rental car agencies on site at each. For those within driving distance, the only entrance or exit to the island is the 4.1-mile Bryant Patton Memorial Bridge (or St. George Island Bridge), just a quick turn off Highway 98 in Eastpoint.

How to Get Around

Once on St. George Island, getting from place to place doesn’t require a car. It has a walkable town square, where hotels, restaurants, and attractions, including the lighthouse, are located. If you want to park your car, Kirschenbaum said, “Rent a bicycle, scooter, or golf cart to explore the island.”