There’s something decidedly glorious about bumping along a eucalyptus-lined dusty red dirt trail on a rented bicycle, knowing that certain things about Porquerolles—a small island off the coast of Hyères—never change, beginning with the pristine beaches. I’ve visited countless times over the past three decades, and this favorite swimming spot, Plage Notre-Dame, remains a high Technicolor experience with a soundtrack of grinding cicadas. The ritual: you lock your bike on a weathered post, shaded by windswept umbrella pines, then pause to admire the perfect panoramic curved strip of fine quartz sand before scrambling down the rickety wooden stairs to find a place to unfurl your towel. Wading through the limpid shallows—a glittering pale aquamarine—it’s hard to imagine that you’re only a 15-minute ferry or water taxi ride away from the overdeveloped French Riviera. And, except for the swarm of day-trippers in high season, you’re on your own.
Porquerolles, a government-protected National Park, prohibits cars and smoking (except in the tiny village square, lined with cafés, where old-timers play pétanque). Bring snacks and plenty of water—there are no lifeguards, no sandwich stands, no sunbeds, and very little shade. Another option, once you’ve dried off, is to visit the nearby Villa Carmignac, a cutting-edge contemporary art museum, then lunch at their superb outdoor restaurant serving Provençal specialties and chilled island-grown rosé. Come back for a dip at sunset, when the palms turn black against an orange and fuchsia-streaked sky.
Where to stay: For a romantic break, book Le Mas du Langoustier or for a family-friendly stay, choose Hotel les Medes. —Lanie Goodman, contributor