That pivot away from traditional izakaya fare is even more noticeable just a few minutes north, on a small strip of Showa-dori Avenue, where three neighboring stalls push the boundaries of what was once a very traditional form.
Over at the always-packed El Bajón, the chefs lean into more tropical climate-worthy fare like jerk chicken and Sri Lankan curry. Nearby is Yatai Bar Ebi-chan, a full-fledged bar decked out in a Campari flag and retro posters, its cocktail menu loaded with quirky concoctions and stiff seasonal fruit and herb-based drinks.
And between them is Megane Coffee & Spirits, a minimalist stall serving pour-over coffee with the option to add distilled liquors like shochu and craft gin. That may seem peculiar, but when you’re bouncing between stalls after hours, both the caffeine and booze come in handy. A genius business idea.
“A new generation is stepping in, bringing fresh energy and creativity to the yatai scene,” Szasz remarked to me. “Coffee-only or shochu-only yatai? Why not! It’s exciting to see these bold newcomers making their mark.”
Where to eat in Fukuoka
Yatai hopping
Spend several nights bouncing between the yatai mentioned above. But you can’t go wrong—if you follow your nose and stomach, and pull up to almost any stall, you’ll enjoy what you find. Rule of thumb: Yatai along the river in Nakasu are generally more touristy and more expensive. It’s a picturesque scene there, but better food and prices are found in the lower-key Tenjin area, where even the locals tend to join in for meals.
Hakata Genki Ippai
Tonkotsu ramen is Fukuoka’s most famous export and a must-try when in town. The global chain Ichiran’s flagship is a major tourist draw, but skip it and head to Genki Ippai, a tiny shop with no exterior signage except for a blue bucket hanging out front. Ramen heads worldwide puzzle over what makes the house tonkotsu—topped with roasted pork, wood-ear mushrooms, and green onions—so especially creamy and rich. I’d liken the flavor to KFC gravy (a good thing, I swear) and have dreamt of a second portion ever since.
Sushi Gyoten
This is a bucket-list sushi experience. Chef Kenji Gyoten is the youngest three-star Michelin chef in Japan and a local legend, celebrated for his culinary mastery and his philanthropic efforts throughout Kyushu. Gyoten’s omakase is a relaxed affair, almost like a dinner party. He’s a delightfully charming host, cracking wise and making chitchat while deftly navigating a nearly three-hour meal with a showman’s precision. Like many high-end sushi experiences in Japan, Gyoten is almost always fully booked a year out, so plan early.
Kawabata Zenzai Hiroba
You’ll need a sweet break from the rich, meaty flavors of Fukuoka cuisine. Trek to this confectionery in the middle of an indoor shopping arcade. The menu is simple: a bowl of zenzai, a sweet red bean soup with grilled mochi dumplings, served with green tea and slices of pickled daikon to cut the sweetness. The shop was founded in the early 20th century, closed in the 1980s, and has since reopened on weekends due to local demand. Yes, it’s really that good.
What to do in Fukuoka
Catch a baseball game
The hometown SoftBank Hawks have been a Nippon Professional Baseball (NPB) dynasty, winning seven Japan Series titles over the past 15 years. Their passionate fanbase embodies that during games at the PayPay Dome—a genuinely fun night out for fans and tourists alike. Stick around for the 7th inning stretch, when fans rapidly inflate and then release hundreds of jet balloons in a synchronized display. Tickets are easy to buy online.
Stroll the parks
Fukuoka’s parks are hard to beat, especially during cherry blossom season. Ohori and Maizuru, two of the largest, boast a massive pond with abundant wildlife, castle ruins, and numerous vistas for viewing the cityscape and sakura blossoms. Closer to the bay is Nishi Park, with its stunning hilltop shrine. Near the central train station is Hakata Old Town, a peaceful block or two stroll through well-preserved buildings from the city’s medieval past as Japan’s main port city.
Kyushu day trips
Fukuoka is the perfect home base for day trips throughout the Kyushu region. There’s nearby Dafaizu, an ancient cultural town; Itoshima, with gorgeous coastlines and lush green forests; Kumamoto, home to its namesake castle; and Nagasaki, a historic natural harbor and site of the last WWII atomic bombing. I opted for the latter, taking a 90-minute express train to the so-called Peace City, where I strolled the river to Peace Park and the harrowing Atomic Bomb Museum, and enjoyed chanpon, a local Chinese-inspired dish of noodles, fried pork, seafood, and cabbage in a light and peppery broth.
Thrift shopping
The city has seen an influx of young people seeking a cheaper cost of urban living, and with them has come thrifting and creative shops. The Daimyo area is teeming with secondhand clothing stores—big chains and boutiques alike—selling all kinds of vintage treasures. Over in the increasingly hip Shirogane neighborhood, Hightide Store leads a wave of quirky, artfully designed stationery shops and cafés.
Where to stay in Fukuoka
The Ritz-Carlton, Fukuoka
The newest Ritz hotel in Japan is a worthwhile splurge: a daytime luxury oasis with minimalist decor featuring natural wood paneling and traditional textiles. This Ritz has six restaurants, including superb sushi, teppanyaki, and kaiseki offerings with ingredients sourced from local farms and fish markets. The world-class concierge service is invaluable for securing impossible-to-snag reservations; the breathtaking indoor infinity pool doubles as the city’s best observation deck; and the rooftop bar is the perfect spot to enjoy those gorgeous Hakata sunsets.
Hotel Cultia Dazaifu
Just 30 minutes south of Fukuoka by train, in the quiet suburb of Dazaifu, this collection of restored old buildings and residences is well worth taking an overnight break from yatai hopping. The rooms feature traditional elements, such as tatami flooring and handcrafted hinoki cypress bathtubs. Hotel Cultia offers private nighttime access to the awe-inspiring Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, which sits at the center of a sprawling compound alongside the Kyushu National Museum, an amusement park, and a bustling pedestrian shopping street. Here, shrinegoers can try umegae-mochi, a delectable red bean cake stamped with a plum blossom shape.