7 Effective Ways to Get Rid of Ant Hills in Your Yard—and Stop New Ones From Taking Over

Ants are a common sight in lawns and gardens. While they aren’t the most destructive insects out there (and generally beneficial to the ecosystem), their hills and holes can become a nuisance in your garden and landscape.

Certain species of ants can become aggressive when disturbed, their hills can be aesthetically displeasing in the garden, and they can even invade your home.

Fortunately, there are several easy ways to eliminate ant hills in your yard, ranging from natural methods to chemical solutions. 

Here are seven ways to deal with ant hills in your yard, according to a professional pest control expert.

Physical Disturbance

The simplest method for dealing with ant hills in your yard is to physically disturb the colony until the ants decide to relocate. This can include flattening the hill, raking or shoveling the mound, or even using a garden hose to flood the area.

This may require some persistence, but it won’t take long before the ants decide to set up shop somewhere else. This method is best used when you’re okay with the colony relocating, since the goal is not to kill the colony.

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Boiling Water

Pouring boiling water on the ant hill is another chemical-free solution for dealing with these insects. This is a popular natural method for removing ant hills, as it’s affordable, doesn’t introduce chemicals to your yard, and kills ants instantly. 

However, according to Matt Smith from Green Pest Management, it also has several drawbacks. Namely, its reach is pretty limited, and it’s not guaranteed to kill the queen, meaning that the colony can potentially rebuild elsewhere.

As a result, you’ll likely have to repeat the process several times to eliminate a large colony, says Smith. Additionally, boiling water can easily damage surrounding plants and grass if poured carelessly.

Diatomaceous Earth

Another natural option is diatomaceous earth. Diatomaceous earth, or DE, is a fine powder made from the fossilized remains of diatoms (small aquatic organisms).

According to Smith, it works to control and kill crawling insects such as ants due to the abrasive nature of the diatoms, which cause dehydration and death.  

“The pros to this technique are that food-grade diatomaceous earth is safe to use around children and pets, it remains active as long as it stays dry, and it’s biodegradable—so it won’t contaminate soil or water,” Smith says.

However, DE loses effectiveness when it gets wet, it can be messy to apply, and it requires care to avoid inhaling the dust during the application process. It also takes time to work, so results can be delayed.

Borax and Sugar Bait

Another DIY solution is to create borax and sugar baits and leave them out for the ants. They are attracted to the sugar and will carry the mixture back to their nest, where it can eliminate the colony, says Smith.

Borax is readily available and accessible, and it’s a relatively safe, natural option (just keep it out of reach of children and pets). 

The biggest downside to this method is that getting the borax-to-sugar ratio just right is very important. Too much borax will deter the ants, while not enough borax may not eliminate the colony, says Smith. Additionally, it may take several days (or even weeks) for the results to be noticeable.

Ant Baits

You’ve probably seen ant baits before at your local hardware store. They can be readily found in the garden center or pest control section, and are sold in multiple forms, including granular and gel.

They contain a slow-acting insecticide mixed with a food source that attracts the ants, who then carry it back to the rest of the colony (including the Queen), says Smith.

Ant baits are usually easy to use and designed in a way that makes them relatively kid- and pet-friendly (the insecticide is contained and not readily accessible to non-target organisms).

That said, it can take a while to see results—anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, according to Smith—and they can be more expensive than natural or DIY options. 

Insecticide Dusts

Another chemical option is insecticide dusts. These finely ground powders are applied directly onto an ant hill and are especially advantageous for eliminating ant hills in hard-to-reach cracks and crevices, Smith says.

The dust adheres to the ants’ bodies as they walk through it, and they carry the insecticide back to the nest, where it is transferred to the rest of the colony. As a result, it has a residual killing effect that lasts for an extended period. 

However, Smith cautions that the powders can drift and potentially harm non-target insects or contaminate water sources if they are not applied correctly. They can also pose a risk to curious pets or kids who may come into contact with them in the garden. 

Liquid Insecticide Sprays

Lastly, Smith suggests that liquid insecticide sprays can be used to address ant hills if you want fast, immediate results. These chemical solutions are typically diluted with water and sprayed directly onto the ant hill, killing any ants that come into contact with them. They’re widely available, affordable, and easy to use. 

Like all chemical solutions, insecticide sprays pose risks. According to Smith, direct spraying can kill beneficial insects, contaminate soil and water, and pose a risk to pets and children, especially if applied incorrectly.

It’s also imperative to exercise caution with insecticide sprays if you are growing food or edible plants in your garden. These are not suitable for use near vegetable gardens, fruit trees, or herb plants.