While fashion tends to be the most talked-about element of couture week, running alongside shows from high-profile houses including Balenciaga (which marked Demna Gvasalia’s last as creative director), Schiaparelli and Margiela (premiering Glenn Martens’s first collection as creative director), high jewelry maisons also descended on the City of Light armed and ready to showcase their latest marvels.
From Boucheron’s industry-bending Impermanence collection to Messika’s 20th anniversary showcase, these are the most exciting high jewelry presentations we saw at Paris Couture Week 2025.
Boucheron
In an immersive, dramatic installation (which required several moments waiting in a flower-filled holding room to allow guests’ eyes to adjust to the dark surroundings), Boucheron presented its 2025 high jewelry collection. Inspired by the fleeting characteristics nature and the art of Japanese ikebana flower arranging, ‘Impermanence’ features six suites, each immortalizing different facets of the natural world – from an in-motion caterpillar whose hairs appear implausibly soft to a dragonfly with delicate mother-of-pearl and sapphire wings.
Less jewelry and more sculpture, the collection pushes the boundaries of wearable art. While its contemporaries were presenting earrings, necklaces and bracelets, Boucheron invited its clients to rest a bejewelled silver butterfly on their shoulder, or affix a bloom of wisteria into their hair. A total of 28 versatile pieces make up the collection, totaling 18,000 hours of work.
Pomellato
Comprised of 75 individual pieces, Pomellato’s new Collezione 1967 collection is separated into three distinct chapters, each representing a formative decade for the Milan-born maison – from the chain-heavy designs of the 1960s to the voluminous extravagance of the eighties and the integration of color in the nineties.
From this deep dive into the Pomellato identity, a few pieces stand forward as standout masterpieces. From the reimagined chains of the 1970s, the Blue Chain Cascade: a cascade of white diamond pavé-set chains that hold a rare 22.23 carat Ceylon sapphire at their heart. From the 1980s, an intriguingly set rode gold necklace featuring a 55.96 carat tanzanite that sits deliberately off center.
Graff
Paying tribute to the vibrant energy of the 1960s (the founding decade of the brand) Graff’s 1963 collection showcases hypnotic concentric oval designs, meticulously set with more than 7,790 diamonds totaling an impressive 129 carats. The visual rhythm created by these repeating forms is at once kaleidoscopic and controlled, with curves of light drawing the eye into an infinite loop, magnifying the radiance of the single, scintillating oval diamonds at their center. There is also a hidden signature woven into each piece: a discreet line of pavé emeralds, a subtle nod to the house’s signature green.
De Beers
De Beers continues celebrating nature with Chapter Two of the Essence of Nature collection, drawing inspiration from emblematic trees native to its diamond-producing countries. Among the 25 newly introduced creations, the standout was the Baobab Magnitude set, a bold and voluminous suite dedicated to Botswana’s ancient ‘tree of life.’ The design pairs intricately carved jet with rough and polished fancy-colored diamonds, creating a silhouette that mirrors the monumental trunk and wide canopy of the baobab. However, it’s the technical ingenuity that makes this set truly special. Each piece incorporates transformable elements and articulated mechanisms, allowing the jewelry to adapt in shape and function to be worn as a dramatic statement necklace or reconfigured into more understated pieces.
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Messika
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, Messika unveiled the Terres d’Instinct collection, capturing the untamed essence of Southern Africa’s landscapes. Drawing inspiration from the stark landscapes and wild beauty of Namibia, Botswana and South Africa, designer Valérie Messika fuses bold shapes with a newly introduced palette of colored gemstones, marking a first for the maison. Among the 16 exceptional new sets, the modular Kalahara necklace emerged as a centerpiece. Brushed gold and pavé brilliance echo the raw stone and searing winds of the Namib desert, with a 34.92-carat fancy intense radiant-cut yellow diamond, bursting like the desert’s sovereign sun.
Buccellati
Buccellati offered a refreshing departure from traditional high jewelry presentations this season by focusing on its historic tradition of creating bejeweled evening bags. Andrea Buccellati eviving designs from its archives, the house introduced a capsule collection that blurs the line between jewelry and objet d’art. The collection consists of three one-of-a-kind clutch bags, each showcasing Buccellati’s signature craftsmanship with white and yellow diamonds, vivid rubellite tourmalines, and hand-engraved goldwork.