7 Ways to Shield Your Outdoor Plants From Sunburn Before It’s Too Late

Plants, just like humans and animals, can suffer sunburn. This happens when a plant is exposed to intense, burning sunlight, usually during prolonged periods of hot, dry weather, and exacerbated by wind.

The plant loses more moisture than its taking in, causing leaf scorch. Sunburned plants also develop bleached, white, or brown areas on the skin of fruit like tomatoes, which is a symptom of dead or damaged tissue.

Plants that have been exposed to too much sun are not doomed, just act quickly to save them by following these tips.

Water Generously

Keeping a sunburned plant well-watered is key for its survival. Check the soil moisture; if it feels dry, water, preferably in the morning.

Water slowly and deeply so the water reaches the roots. Saturate the soil without overwatering; this is more likely in soil with poor drainage or containers with inadequate drainage holes.

Always target the base of the plant and try not to get the leaves wet, as this can lead to fungal problems.

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Provide Shade

To help plants recover and prevent further damage, install a shade cloth filter that filters a portion of the sunlight.

30-50% shade cloth is typically used for plants that tolerate full sun but need protection from the hottest summer sun, and 50-70% shade cloth is for more delicate or shade-loving plants.

If you cannot obtain a shade cloth quickly, an umbrella or a pop-up canopy serves as a temporary solution.

Move the Plant

If it’s a plant in a pot or a container, move it temporarily to a location that is protected from the hottest afternoon sun. Make sure that your landscape plants are in a location that is suitable for their specific light exposure tolerance.

Most perennials, many shrubs, and even some trees can be transplanted while still young. If the plants are not suitable for full sun, consider moving them. While that takes effort, it will pay off in the long run because a plant that is in the wrong location won’t thrive.

Remove Dead Leaves

Resist the urge to trim leaves that only have minor sun damage, such as on the margins, where leaf scorch typically starts. Only remove leaves that are visibly dead and fully brown, crispy, and dry. 

The leaves may be unsightly, but keep leaves that still show some green on the plant, as they continue to perform photosynthesis and shield the rest of the foliage and fruit from the sun.

Get Rid of Damaged Fruit

Remove any fruit with sunscald, such as tomatoes with white, yellow, or light brown patches, so the plant does not unnecessarily expend energy developing damaged fruit. If the fruit is ripe or close to harvest, it is still safe to eat yet prone to faster spoilage.

Monitor for Pests and Diseases

Plants that have suffered sunscald are susceptible to pests and diseases, so it’s important to keep a close eye on them even after they have recovered.

The weakened and damaged areas of leaves, stems, and fruit become entry points for pathogens. For example, sunburned tomatoes can get black mold, a fungal infection that puts the rest of the plant at risk.

Wrap the Trunk

Sunscald doesn’t only happen in summer weather. Young ornamental and fruit trees with thin bark may suffer from sunscald in the winter.

It generally happens on the south or southwest side of the trunk when tissue that is frozen in cold weather is heated by the sun. This causes the tissue to thaw and then refreeze when temperatures drop again, which causes the bark to crack.

Do not paint or seal the cracks, but let the injured bark heal naturally. Protect affected trees with tree wrap for a few winters until their bark is less vulnerable.