This Hotel Has Rome’s First Three Michelin Star Restaurant and the City’s Best Views—Here’s What It’s Like to Eat There

No matter where I turned inside Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel, I could not escape the feeling of magnificence. It seeps through the fine art on the walls, like the rare triptych by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo that hangs in the lobby. It’s palpable from the hotel’s balconies that peer over Rome’s iconic landmarks. The magnificence can even be experienced through taste, as it is home to Rome’s first three Michelin star restaurant, La Pergola.

La Pergola is more than just the jewel in the hotel’s crown, it is that to the city as well. The restaurant recently underwent a full renovation and reopened its doors last year, revealing an interior that pays homage to the grand city it calls home.

The new design, executed by Paris-based Studio Jouin Manku, cleverly tells the story of Rome—think terracotta hues that mirror the city’s rooftops, crystal chandeliers that allude to Roman rainfall, and a bar carved from travertine, the stone used for the Coliseum and so many Ancient Roman icons. Upon further inspection, you can see the design is laced with unexpected moments that serve as an amuse-bouche to the dining experience. My personal favorite is the masterfully embroidered wall nook by Atelier Montex, which showcases designs of chef Heinz Beck’s most treasured flowers and herbs.

The vast library of wine at La Pergola includes more than 60,000 bottles, including ultra-rare vintages in the cellar. These wines can be explored through the full 10-course experience with five wines (1,200 euros per couple), the abbreviated seven-course menu with four wines (1,000 euros per couple), or you can choose to order a la carte and drink by the glass. The premium beverage offerings trickle into a global water menu, where both mineral and bottled waters from around the world can be found.

While many flock to Rome to get lost in its maze of frenetic trattorias, chef Beck provides a radically different approach to Italian cuisine—save for his signature dish, the Faggotelli La Pergola, an inverted version of Rome’s classic carbonara, where pouches of handmade pasta are filled with the cheesy, peppery sauce, creating a flavorful explosion with each bite.

Beck’s methods are often scientific, balancing flavor with chemical precision—so much so that his work is cited in Italian academia. Most important to the Bavarian-born chef is focusing on balance and health. His risotto, for instance, is made without any milk or solid cheese, its indulgent creaminess created rather through technique.

The meal begins with a slew of artistic small plates prepared tableside, an intimate, tone-setting moment between chef and patron. The tasting menu is a tour of local ingredients such as Alba white truffles, Mediterranean red shrimp, and Italian veal. As the final espresso hits your lips and your hands find the drawers of a fantastic biscuit cabinet, you’ll understand how La Pergola has kept a firm grip on its Three Michelin Stars.

While La Pergola is a gastronome’s most prized work of art at Rome Cavalieri, it certainly has its competition. The hotel’s private art collection of over 1,000 original pieces adorn the walls of its grand hallways, lobby, and suites. The public galleries make for a perfect moment pre- or post-dinner. Expect to find 17th-century paintings, such as “Judith with the Head of Holofernes,” marble statues like “The Kiss,” tapestries including “The Triumph of Mars,” and the collection’s true treasure, the aforementioned triptych by Tiepolo.

A nightcap is best served at Rome Cavalieri’s Tiepolo Bar, which is often brought to life with both a live piano and a front row seat to Tiepolo’s masterpieces. The craft cocktail menu, called The Art Collection, draws upon the hotel’s various art pieces for inspiration. “Each drink is a liquid interpretation of an iconic work of art, crafted to evoke emotions and inspiration—just as a great artist does with their brush,” writes Angelo Severini, the chief mixologist. Drinks like “A…Dollar” represent the hotel’s private Andy Warhol “Dollar Signs” collection, which can be found in the penthouse suite.

While it is easy to get lost in Rome Cavalieri’s lavish amenities, some of its most memorable moments come from outside. Positioned atop Monte Mario, Rome’s highest hill, the hotel’s 15 acres provide sweeping views of the Eternal City, a reminder that it is both a spectator to Rome’s magnificence and the keeper of some of its greatest stories.