This neighborhood guide is curated by one of our New York City-based editors who calls it home.
I have long said that out-of-towners looking to explore the outer boroughs should head to Carroll Gardens. This, according to me, is the real Brooklyn: soulful with its old architecture; neighborhood-y and community-oriented; historical yet relevant. The streets are lined with protected Brownstones and shady trees; in winter, the same streets are dusted with snow, which creates a whole different type of charm. The two main commercial streets, Smith Street and Court Street are packed with designer restaurants and old-time bars, with high-end retail and vintage stores. They hum with life around the clock, with friends sipping coffee at outdoor cafes, families lining up for exceptional pizza, and twenty-somethings bar hopping late night. The neighborhood is just 20 minutes from downtown Manhattan which, combined with its dining and bar scene that would compete with any in the city, make it a popular weekend destination with New Yorkers who live elsewhere. It’s even reachable after walking the Brooklyn Bridge—just carry on farther down Jay Street (I did this as part of my commute to the city for years).
Though it may now have a reputation as one of the city’s glitzier zip codes alongside its neighbor Cobble Hill (yes, some of the below will technically be on the CH side of the area, but it all blends together…), its old-school roots are what always capture my heart. Before it became the West Village of Brooklyn, Carroll Gardens was an Italian stronghold. Today, century-old delis and bakeries where old timers still swap stories in their Sicilian dialect hold their own amongst the newer openings like Rachel Comey. Like the best of New York, Carroll Gardens doesn’t forget its origins. It just learns to make space for what comes next.
7:30 a.m. Walk and coffee on the go
I am an early riser and I love to get up before the neighborhood has started to stir and walk the leafy boulevards of Union, Clinton, and Henry streets. There are plenty of places to pop into for excellent coffee including Poppy’s on Degraw Street, which has phenomenal cakes and Hungry Ghost, where I often treat myself to a King David Breakfast Taco. But my go-to, especially this early, is Food You Desire, the local bodega on the corner of Union and Smith where the drip coffee is the perfect New York cup and Ismael and the guys know your name, remember your order and may even gift you a lovely package of toys and clothes when, say, a baby is born (as they did when I had both my son and daughter). I know we say it’s impossible to identify the best bodega in New York but, I think I have here.
9.30 a.m. Pancakes for breakfast
I love an old-school diner and none is more classic than Cobble Hill Coffee Shop, a salt-of-the-earth all-day spot on Court. If we make it to the playground early, my kids and I will stop in here before the morning rush for pancakes smothered in syrup and butter, breakfast burritos the size of an eggplant and again, more of that great strong black coffee. Oh, and they do excellent cheeseburgers later in the day. It’s a refreshing no-frills, honest spot in an area increasingly dominated by the newer and the pricier. If wanting the best BLT of your life, snag a table at eastern-Mediterranean coffee shop Nili, back over on Smith.
11 a.m. Pick up some specialties to bring home
I sometimes pop into Caputo’s Fine Foods, an old Italian deli at the end of Court Street, just to admire its selection of olives from the old country and for the friendly banter across the counter between the loyal customers and the veteran shopkeepers. On grocery days, I will bring home packages of freshly sliced San Daniele prosciutto, bundles of fresh stuffed cheese ravioli, hunks of aged parmesan, and little plastic containers of bocconcini. It’s also the perfect spot to pick up everything you need for an at-home aperitivo spread if having friends over. If that’s the plan I will also swing past Mazzola’s to pick up a loaf of their famous lard bread which is baked there every day early in the morning, and then Smith and Vine which has an excellent selection of organic and global wines. My go-to is a Grüner and Barbera.
1 p.m. Get a bite
For lunch, it’s tough to beat Court Street Grocers for their creative menus and mountain-high sandwiches. I am a traditionalist and love the ham and cheese but when feeling adventurous I’ll do the broccoli reuben (who knew the staple green vegetable could make you forget all about the magic that is pastrami) or the salmon with potato chips which is as delicious and satisfying as it sounds. Pro tip: If the wait is just too long, walk a block up to F+F Pizzeria’s slice window. You will never regret a slice of their Partanna, expertly finished with chili and red onion. And this may be controversial, but yes, it is much better than the square slices you get at Baby Luc’s up the street (no offence, Lucali).
3 p.m. Books, dresses, and possibly a vintage double boiler?
In the afternoons I stroll the area and shop. Books are Magic is a fun and seriously well-curated book store from author Emma Straub, that hosts readings, signings, and more. I’ll explore the resell items and funky original dresses, cardigans, and more at the bright and beautiful Rue St Paul, who brilliantly let you rent the items before full purchase which works wonderfully for indecisive shoppers like myself. And I can’t help but enjoy a good ol’ fashion peruse of the old signage, tableware, and more at Yesterday’s News, which is packed to the gills with just about any household item you could think to resell. Need some antique clothing pegs for the kids’ room? This is the spot.
4 p.m. Snack time
Four words: Rose cinnamon ice cream. This is my favorite (and I think the top-selling) flavor from Malai, the artisanal ice cream shop on Smith Street that fuses South Asian flavors into deliciously refreshing creamy treats. There are a few seats inside, or you can take the cup with you as you walk the block.
5 p.m. Whet the whistle
In the summer months, this has to be an icy cold beer at Gowanus Yacht Club, the outdoor pop-up bar that is a neighborhood fixture and whose arrival signals the official start to summer. It’s lively and laid-back, with a selection of cold beers and cocktails and if you’re lucky, hot dogs or burgers if they feel like serving food. In winter, however, my first love is Black Mountain Wine House, found on Hoyt and Union Street. The space is cozy and really inviting—lots of deep sitting chairs, a large bar, and a roaring fire place. Plus, the wine list is excellent. But definitely go here hungry. The food menu is masterfully created on a hot plate, and the mac and cheese with Gruyèrere and truffle and European-style house panini are a masterclass in bar food.
7 p.m. Dig in
There is a section of Smith Street that has become known as Restaurant Row. It has a wonderful selection of places to eat and drink from cocktail bars like Barely Disfigured to low-key Mexican like Pure Pecha. But I can never resist dinner at Frankie Spuntino’s. This restaurant opened over a decade ago and put the-then sleepy neighborhood on the map. Since then the restaurant has only gotten better. I dream of its sausage cavatelli. The dining room is heavy on woods, with a big, inviting bar. It is the type of hospitable space where you settle in, order the extra dessert, have another bottle of wine, and really make a night of it. Also, its outdoor garden may be the chicest backyard dining room in all of Brooklyn, and that is saying something. In a neighborhood increasingly filled with destination restaurants, Frankie’s continues to be the best. It may honestly be my favorite restaurant in the whole city for its mix of excellent food, hospitable spaces, and atmosphere.
9 p.m. The after (or before) dinner drink
Okay, I time-stamped this 9 p.m. But it could have been 5 p.m., 7 p.m., 11 p.m. Brooklyn Social is the perfect cocktail spot for this neighborhood. It is inside a former Italian social club and photos of that era hang on its walls; the corner table by the door was where the mafia boss used to sit while conducting meetings, so as to watch the comings and goings but also, crucially, never leave his back exposed to danger. The place does on-point martinis and negronis and has a petite backyard for drinks al fresco on warmer nights.
11 p.m. Night cap
More and more fancy cocktail bars may be moving in to the hood, but when I want one more for the road, I head to Boat. The original (and largely, last remaining) dive bar of the neighborhood remains unapologetically gritty. They prefer cash, the lights are low, and up until recently, a pool table knocked around the back of the bar. Stop in for a beer, a shot, and if you are lucky, maybe some whacky neighborhood gossip from the regulars perched at all hours on its long bar.