Pandora’s latest launch is a nod to its past.
This week, the brand is rolling out its Talisman collection, an assortment of ancient Roman-inspired coin charms that can be worn on necklaces, bracelets, earrings or even a belt chain. They’re something of an evolution of its signature charms, said Luciano Rodembusch, the retailer’s president for North America.
The collection, Pandora’s biggest launch of 2025, is the latest push in the Danish company’s efforts to elevate its reputation beyond mall mainstay charm seller. While the over 900 charms Pandora sells for its signature rope bracelets can lean kitschy, featuring everything from Disney characters to a heart inscribed with the words “soccer mom,” (complete with a soccer ball in place of the O) the Talisman charms are sleeker and designed to appeal to a fashion-oriented consumer. Covered in Latin inscriptions or symbols like arrows, cherubs and flaming hearts, they’re reminiscent of the pendants sold by the likes of celebrity favourite jeweller Foundrae or DTC label Mejuri.
For Pandora, it’s a way to push into its future as a more sophisticated — but still accessible — jewellery label while still honouring its heritage.
“When you build your [charm] bracelet, you’re telling people a little bit about your story,” he said. “The talisman … is a new way to present charms. A different attitude, different aesthetic.”
Pandora first began upping the product ante in earnest two years ago, with the launch of its lab-grown diamond assortment just as consumers were beginning to embrace them en masse. Last year’s Essence collection — a series of sculptural necklaces, bracelets and earrings in silver and gold, was the next step, followed up by the Talisman collection. The goal is to become a multi-faceted jewellery brand that, yes, still sells under $50 charms for an entry-level consumer, but also a $2,000 lab-grown diamond necklace.
Marketing, too, has played a major role in this progression. The brand has enlisted more celebrity ambassadors to front its campaigns: the musician Tyla is starring in its Talisman campaign, and for its lab-grown diamond collection it hired Pamela Anderson — who has since gone on to be an in-demand brand ambassador, working with the likes of Proenza Schouler, denim label Re/Done and celebrity-favourite home products label Flamingo Estate. Pandora has also been popping up in more fashion-centric settings, hosting major events during New York Fashion Week and even putting both Anderson and Tyla in its lab-grown gems for the Met Gala earlier this year. Stores, too, have gotten a face lift, bringing in more colour to its formerly sleek, all-white settings.
“Every time you surprise consumers is cool,” said Rodembusch. “It’s like ‘Wow, I never expected to see you guys like this, right?
Rodembusch said that it was the lab-grown launch in particular that prompted consumers, particularly Millennials and Gen-Z, to start thinking about the brand differently. The goal with the Talisman collection is to keep pushing that positioning, while retaining its reputation for accessibility — the Talismans start at $45.
So far, the strategy is working: Pandora posted 8 percent sales growth in the second quarter, and has doubled its business in the all-important US market in the past four years. However, the business still faces headwinds: Pandora’s stock is down 30 percent this year and it trimmed its profit margin guidance in April due to the anticipated impact of tariffs.
Still, with consumer interest in jewellery on the rise, Rodembusch believes there’s reason to be optimistic for the future — as long as they keep delivering on the need to be more present in fashion’s cultural zeitgeist.
“As the leader, we need to lead, right?” said Rodembusch. “It’s important for us to launch trends, so you’ll see us creating new ideas more and more.”