I’ve Visited California for 20 Years—and This Mountain Town Is the Best Place to See Fall Foliage

Needless to say, California isn’t usually the first state that comes to mind for fall foliage—but the Golden State isn’t all beaches and sunshine. Nestled at the base of the soaring Sierra Nevada mountains, the small town of Bishop, California, has autumn views that rival leaf-peeping destinations the world over.

This rugged little mountain town is located in Owens Valley on Highway 395, near landmark destinations such as Death Valley National Park, Yosemite National Park, and Mount Whitney (the tallest point in the contiguous United States). As a result, tourists often think of Bishop as a pit stop on the way to Mammoth Lakes or Lake Tahoe—but trust me, this is one place where you should take your time.

As an East-to-West Coast transplant that loves fall, I’ve spent years searching for leaf-peeping destinations in California, and Bishop is my favorite. Surrounded by Inyo National Forest, Bishop has an impressive selection of restaurants and cozy stays within city limits, in addition to attractions like Keough’s Hot Springs, the Owens Valley Paiute-Shoshone Cultural Center, and the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest.

Bishop is a true year-round destination, with rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, fly fishing, and many more things to do in the area—but the town really shines in the fall. As temperatures drop, nearby groves of aspen, willow, cottonwood, and other deciduous trees turn into a brilliant display of scarlet, gold, and orange.

“It doesn’t just happen in one place overnight,” says Julie Faber, the marketing specialist at the Bishop Area Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau. “The fall colors start in mid-September and go through October, depending on Mother Nature. Because of the extreme elevation shift, it starts up high and goes slowly downhill as the season progresses. It’s fun to explore different places depending on what’s peaking.”

And when it comes to places to explore, you’ll have the pick of the litter. A short drive out of town will bring you to destinations like Bishop Creek Canyon, where you can cruise past waterfalls and colorful foliage all the way up to the equally gorgeous Lake Sabrina, North Lake, or South Lake. 

The town also plays host to the Fall Colors Car Show, one of three events (the other two being the Millpond Music Festival and the Bishop Pabanamanina Pow Wow) that take place during peak leaf-peeping weekends every year. “It’s a classic car show,” says Faber. “Everybody gussies up their cars and then they take them up Bishop Creek Canyon, where all the vibrant foliage is going off. It’s this spectacular show of beautiful cars and beautiful leaves.”

While a scenic drive never goes amiss, hiking around Bishop will let you get up close and personal with those fall colors. About 40 minutes away from town, Lower Rock Creek Canyon Trail follows a series of high alpine lakes and meadows over nine miles, though you can stop at any point to soak up the sights. “Lower Rock Creek is spectacular,” says Faber. “[There are] giant aspen groves through that entire eight miles. It’s one that I would definitely suggest.”

If you’re understandably feeling overwhelmed by all the options, take a look at Bishop’s online fall color tutorial or stop by the visitor center in town to find out what’s peaking and where. “If you have any questions, we can point you in the right direction for those particular days you’re in town,” says Faber.

With all that leaf-peeping, you’re bound to work up an appetite. Sit down at spots like Mountain Rambler Brewery, known for its craft beers and seasonal menu made with locally grown ingredients. About 15 minutes south of Bishop is another personal favorite of mine, Copper Top BBQ. Though lines can get long at this Big Pine joint, the smoked ribs and pulled pork are well worth the wait.

For on-the-go meals, pick up sandwiches and pastries from one of Bishop’s two famous bakeries: Erick Schat’s Bakkerÿ, a Dutch-style eatery popular among Highway 395 roadtrippers, or the local favorite Great Basin Bakery, beloved for its fresh breads. If you have time, try both—you can’t go wrong no matter what you pick. “Bishop is definitely known as a stop for its bakeries, and we do baked goods really well,” says Faber.

Since you’ll probably want more than one day to experience everything Bishop has to offer, book your accommodations well in advance. The Wayfinder Bishop puts guests in spacious, modern rooms right next to the serene Bishop Creek. “The Wayfinder has a new wine bar that’s open to the public, so whether you stay there or not, they have a great happy hour along the creek with fire pits,” Faber adds.

Just down the road, the hostel-style Eastside Guesthouse & Bivy has 11 rooms, perfect for families and groups. For campers, I recommend French Camp Campground. A little north of town, the campground has running water and is a short drive from Rock Creek Lake, putting you in a prime position for leaf-peeping and hiking.

To get to Bishop, you can take a road trip along Highway 395 and experience the stunning Sierra Nevada scenery. Or, if you’re visiting from San Francisco or Denver, fly into Bishop International Airport (FNT), which has expanded commercial flights just in time for leaf-peeping season. “If you can hop on one of those on United, we have that service now, and the plan is to continue growing that into the fall season,” says Faber.