This summer, fans of Trivet – chef Jonny Lake and master sommelier Isa Bal’s debut – were delighted by the news that a sister restaurant was on the way. In mid-September, Labombe fledged from a weekly pop-up, based on a fictional restaurant from Lake’s school days, to its own standalone, bricks-and-mortar destination, on the ground floor of the Como Metropolitan hotel.
While Lake and Bal’s first restaurant is happily tucked away from the main bustle of central London in cutesy Bermondsey, Labombe is taking on the bright lights of Mayfair. Occupying the space previously held by the Met Bar, the restaurant’s neighbors are as glitzy as they come – Four Seasons Park Lane is over the road and The Dorchester a mere five minutes away.
But despite its fancy location, the restaurant isn’t buckling under the pressure of white-tableclothed neighbors and is holding true to Trivet’s character as a more relaxed take on fine dining, and then some. Billed as Trivet’s “naughty little sibling,” by Lake, and there’s a really conscious effort to not take things too seriously. On a Tuesday evening just a week after opening, Lake was comfortably ambling around the dining room. Sometimes he was sat at the bar, overseeing the open kitchen, other times he was casually dropping plates off at tables, enthusiastically sharing tidbits about his suppliers and the origins of a dish.
Having the boss in could feel stressful elsewhere, but here it seems like Lake’s presence imbued a sense of calm. While ‘naughty little sibling’ might feel like a disservice to Lambombe – this is still fine dining – it’s clear that the restaurant is ready to lean into this fun nature. Lake and Bal are clearly confident that Mayfair is ready for them.
Chef
Professional cooking wasn’t the first choice for Jonny Lake. In fact, his first encounter of the industry was volunteering for a meals on wheels charity while studying physics and biology in Montreal. Seed firmly planted, he went on to formally train as chef.
After a stint in Italy working at several of its most celebrated restaurants, Lake made the move to the UK to join Heston Blumenthal’s legendary (and bonkers) The Fat Duck, moving through the ranks to head up the entire group.
In 2018, he departed the restaurant along with fellow Fat Duck alum Isa Bal. Together, they launched Trivet. Routinely celebrated for its commitment to holding wine and food at the same level, Trivet has carved out a more relaxed take on fine dining, with two Michelin stars awarded for its efforts.
While Labombe is undeniably Lake’s baby, its care has been entrusted to head chef and fellow Canadian Evan Moore. Also from the Helston Blumenthal multiverse, Moore joins from his role as head chef at Dinner by Heston Melbourne.
The motto at Trivet was clear and it has passed on to Labombe, too: long live the a la carte menu. Starters are snacks are clearly made to be divvied out (Trivet’s wonderful tongue bun, with its pillowy brioche roll, anchovy mayo and lick of tangy blackcurrant has made its way to this menu; order two if you don’t want to have to slice it), but mains are yours and yours alone. “Go on, order your own main course!” Labombe declares. “You don’t need to share!”
Vegetarians get a nod with the confit pumpkin, but otherwise we are in the realm of the carnivore here, and great hunks of meat descend on tables. The veal Milanese, breadcrumbed bone-in and served with a syrupy sweet-and-sour agrodolce, is especially commandeering, as is the bavette steak, boldly plated completely alone, without any need for embellishment.
Things don’t feel too serious, and Lake confides that the side portion of fries is inspired by those served at Canadian fast food joint, New York Fries. Piping hot, skin-on and covered in a spicy rub, they’re brilliant. On paper, the bitter leaf salad feels like a good way to cut through the meat and the carbs, but a lip-coatingly oily mustard dressing keeps it firmly in the realm of comfort food.
Make it to dessert, and there’s yet more comfort food: a silky creme caramel spiked with bitter Campari and the butter tart – a sweet Canadian classic with butter, egg and syrup encased in a crispy pastry.
On to the good stuff. The drinks list at Labombe was always going to be subject to much anticipation, and fortunately, Bal’s latest offering lives up to it. Developed alongside Philipp Reinstaller, who is heading up drinks at Labombe, its heavily Eurocentric, with unusual bottles from the likes of Georgia, Armenia and Turkey, as well the usual suspects – France, Spain and Italy.
Like at Trivet, food and wine is intended to have equal weighting, so you’ll find that the list is huge but accessible, with plenty of opportunity to try some special varieties by the glass. Reinstaller and team are on hand to make sense of the 52 (!) page menu if needed.
Interiors
Labombe’s look is courtesy of Turkish architect Umay Çeviker of Derin Yeşil, who looked to create a warm, welcoming space. The kitchen is open but not in a self-serving attention grabbing way and the rotation of art from up-and-coming British names feels like a generous nod to the restaurant’s location.
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As seasoned restaurateurs, Lake and Bal know better than most that the devil is in the detail – and there are details aplenty. Linens are crisp but not too perfect, pressed white tablecloths are done away with, every single wine calls for a different glass variety and the hefty knives needed to cut through all that meet are emblazoned not with the maker, but with ‘Lambombe.’
labombe.co.uk