Last year, rumors swirled about Lure Fishbar – an upmarket SoHo seafood restaurant from restaurateur John McDonald – was being threatened with eviction after 20 years. Why? Neighboring Prada wanted to take over the lease in order to open an outpost of its Pasticceria Marchesi restaurant. An ironic conundrum considering Lure’s high-profile regulars.
A year since that rumor mill began turning, Lure’s departure remains unconfirmed – though its lease is due to end part way through next year, potentially allowing the fashion house to pounce. What we do know, however, is that McDonald and his team have acted on foresight (disaster prepping, maybe?), and opened Seahorse, another fancy seafood-focused restaurant, this time inside W New York – Union Square, in the landmark Guardian Life building.
Accessed by its own entrance, separate to the hotel, Seahorse is being positioned as upmarket but not pretentious; it’s elevated but not exclusive. McDonald has hopes that the opening can kick-start what was once a bustling dining destination.
Led by head chef John Villa, the menu prioritizes seasonal seafood with ingredients sourced just minutes away at Union Square Greenmarket. A classic raw bar leads: there’s an extensive oyster list, as well as crudo and a mammoth seafood platter, featuring shrimp, lobster and tuna tartare.
Sharer appetizers and entrees are ocean-dominated too (lobster pasta; dover sole with meuniere sauce; Maine cod; poached swordfish), but there is some diversity in the form of pan roasted chicken with tarragon veloute and a 12oz NY strip streak.
The space itself was designed by New York firm Rockwell Group and, like its big sister Lure, aptly incorporates maritime touches. While the huge under-sea mural in the main dining room might feel gimmicky alone it is anchored by more luxe touches, such as the handmade scallop tiles that line the zinc-topped bar and glitzy mother-of-pearl inlays.
Seahorse’s 125 seats are a mix of discreet booths, banquettes and mid-room table seats. A sultry little bar, serving signature cocktails including a Seahorse Martini, adjoins the main dining room, with the entire space accessed by a wood-panelled arched corridor.
Related Story
Time will tell as to the fate of Lure. Will the fashion giant or the beloved restaurant prevail? Who knows – for now, though, fans can take consolation in the presence of Seahorse.
201 Park Ave S, New York, NY 10003, seahorsenyc.com