Under the forest tapestry of fluffy fruit bats and intersecting branches, I crept closer to a prehistoric-looking giant tortoise that had taken refuge in the shade of some shrubbery. My presence on Aldabra Atoll in the Indian Ocean was improbable for a number of reasons. The world’s second-largest coral atoll is not only extremely remote (it’s about 700 miles from Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles), but it also requires visitors to adhere to intense biosecurity measures. The atoll is home to 100,000 giant tortoises, the largest population in the world, as well as to nearly 400 other endemic species and subspecies, including the white-throated rail, the western Indian Ocean’s last remaining flightless bird.
Smaller ships like the one I’m traveling on, Ponant’s (#5 Small Ship) Le Bougainville, can access these prime natural areas with minimal impact. Visiting most of the Seychelles’ tiny Outer Islands, like the 0.18-square-mile St. Francois, involved “wet landings”: hopping off Zodiacs straight into clear shallow water. Veteran outfitter Abercrombie & Kent, which partnered with Ponant on the experience, took numerous measures to ensure that our arrival would not harm the environment, including dipping our shoes in antimicrobial liquid and vacuum-sealing our belongings.
Coastal Africa and the continent’s island nations, like the Seychelles and Madagascar, are inviting places to cruise, with their unique ecosystems, white-sand beaches, and historical seaside cities. Yet offerings here are limited. We didn’t encounter another vessel—not even a fishing boat—during our first 10 days of sailing through the Seychelles. I saw more red-footed boobies than tourists.