For winter, Ronnie Fieg continued building upon the “return to classic Kith,” that he presented on the runway back in September. It’s a more mature and considered offering this season, and not just because the lookbook opens with Fieg himself wearing a tobacco brown double-breasted suit—with matching tonal shirt and tie—from the brand’s ongoing Giorgio Armani collaboration. (Get this on Jeremy Strong, stat!)
Fieg relishes the winter collections because he can really indulge in his love for fabrics and layering, and this season was no exception, with an emphasis on blown-up takes on classic textures like bouclés and chain stitches, and workhorse fabrics that deceive the eye, like a tightly knit felted terry used for a very ’80s oversized cropped sweatshirt with a cropped fit, or a patchwork suede and leather jacket that was actually faux but had the perfect worn-in patina of a vintage piece. A spectacular felted wool suit with a boxy, cropped double-breasted jacket and creased pants had the artful drama of a Beuys but made for every-day. A pair of herringbone trousers had a soft drape and a slightly stiff hand that made them one of the standout pieces of the collection.
Elsewhere, a collaboration with the Japanese label Ssstein yielded some super-cozy, steal-from-your boyfriend/husband/friend/whatever fuzzy sweaters, and silk wool swishy button-down shirts. While it was one of Fieg’s more subdued collections in terms of color palette, Kith’s signature funky pieces were were well represented: the statement leather bomber jacket, a devastating dark green pony coach jacket, a groovy tapestry fleece, and a pair of pleated jeans with darts at the front and back of the hem with a slightly carrot shape. “This is one of the best-fitting pants I’ve ever had,” Fieg said, which is of course one of the many reasons why he continues to get it right each season; because he makes clothes he actually wears everyday, and not just in photo shoots.