All these years later, here I am to do the same. Bill loved this place, naming it after his daughter and declaring it ‘the sweetest hotel that ever was’. Nowadays his legacy is stamped all over town. The Irma sits on the US National Register of Historic Places, and Cody’s charming wide streets, nightly rodeo, and excellent shopping proves almost as much a draw as Yellowstone itself.
Inside, it’s like I’ve walked onto the set of an old Western. Taxidermy stag heads sit on wood paneled walls, antlers have become chandeliers, and it’s a feast of color and texture in that way you typically only see in old photographs—floral carpets, clashing wallpaper, lace curtains, and stars and stripes all over. Plaques next to old photos inform of scandal and intrigue, heaving curiosity cabinets display vintage wooden guns, coins and bric-a-brac and, in the Silver Saddle Lounge, there’s a show saddle that belonged to Buffalo Bill himself.
I’m gearing up to take my luggage upstairs (there’s no elevator in this old hotel, so bear that in mind) by watching a pair of hand-painted crocodile skin cowboy boots spinning on a turntable when I am saved by a fellow guest in full Western getup. I have to say that I enjoy this—perhaps he’s not a real cowboy, but I like that everyone’s leaning in to the theme. After all, I’ve got my boots on too—and I’m a city-dwelling Brit (albeit one who can ride a horse).
Rooms are named after esteemed patrons. I’m in the Simon Snyder, Pennsylvania’s third governor from 1808 to 1817. Entering is to step back in time again, all fringed lamps and antique mahogany furniture, two stately bed frames dressed in maroon, a plush navy armchair, and thick velvet curtains with gold tasseled tiebacks. But old world charm is paired with modern comforts: strong Wi-Fi, a hot shower with decent water pressure, and (appropriately ancient-looking) air conditioner that works perfectly well.
The wood-paneled restaurant, with its red-topped tables and leathery booths, pleated flag bunting, tchotchkes, and yet more moose taxidermy, is my favorite room. There’s a buffet and à la carte breakfast, lunch, and dinner but, if you only try one thing, make it the signature all-you-can-eat prime rib buffet. I had an enormous hand-carved slice with a heap of tasty sides and whiskey sauce so good I could’ve drunk it neat. You’ll see the historical jewel in the Irma’s crown at the back: a cherrywood bar allegedly gifted to Buffalo Bill from Queen Victoria, now the meeting place for all the town to gather over a country music soundtrack—the place has been packed every night.