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The Beckmann family is one of the biggest names in tequila given that it controls Jose Cuervo, a brand that has held the No. 1 spot in sales for many years. The family also has a few other brands under its Proximo Spirits portfolio (a subsidiary of their Becle company), including Maestro Dobel, which is famous for releasing the first cristalino expression (for better or for worse) in 2008 called Dobel Diamante. And next week, Dobel will launch the new Tahona Tequila Blanco, an tequila that is made using a very traditional production method.
Normally, the cooked agave used to make Dobel is crushed with a roller mill, a pretty common practice in the tequila world. (Some other brands that are part of the Cuervo family use a diffuser for this extraction, but the brand says that is not the case here.) The new Tahona expression, however, employs the titular method for this crucial production step. A tahona is a large volcanic stone wheel that rolls in a circle over the cooked agave to crush it and release the sugary juice (once pulled by hardworking donkeys, tahona wheels are now mechanized). This is a relatively uncommon step in the tequila-making process these days, although the brands that do use it claim that it enhances the flavor of their products—Fortaleza, G4, Cascahuin, Wild Common, and Tapatio are just a few that use a tahona for at least some of their expressions.
“Dobel Tahona Tequila Blanco is . . . a tribute to the heritage of tequila-making and the passion that has guided our craft for generations,” said Alejandro Coronado, maestro tequilero of Dobel Tequila, in a statement. “By embracing the traditional tahona method—slowly steam roasting the mature organic agave in masonry ovens, then manually unloading it and slowly crushing it with the tahona stone wheel—we are honoring the traditions set forth by past tequileros. One of the key elements in this process, beyond the tahona itself, is the use of natural fermentation with bagasse, which plays a crucial role in developing the tequila’s complexity and character.”
Of course, don’t take his word for it—you’ll have to try this tequila for yourself to see how it compares to other Dobel expressions, as well as tahona-produced tequila from other brands. We got an early sample and the overall impression was good—notes of black pepper, citrus, vanilla, grass, sweet roasted agave, and some cinnamon lead the palate, making this blanco a decent option for mixing or sipping. You can find Dobel Tahona at select retailers starting next week (SRP $48) in New York, Texas, Florida, and California, and you can find the rest of the Dobel lineup available at websites like ReserveBar now.
Authors
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Jonah Flicker