I’ve Lived in Texas for 34 Years—and This Remote Beach Town Might Be the Most Peaceful Place in the State

About two hours southwest of Houston lies Matagorda, a small beach town for travelers seeking solitude and a break from everyday life. Unlike other beach towns in Texas, Matagorda is sleepy. You won’t find crowds, buzzing bars, and traffic here; instead, you’ll encounter wide-open stretches of sand, tiny mom-and-pop eateries, and not a whole lot going on except fishing, shelling, birding, kayaking, and a few other outdoor pursuits.

It’s where I go to unplug and where, during those transitional moments in life, I go to reflect and rest. And during the cold, dark winter months, it’s a glimmer of much-needed warmth and sunlight.

Matagorda Bay sits where the Colorado River spews into the Gulf. This brackish water teems with wildlife—particularly sought-after fish such as redfish, black drum, and flounder. You might see a dolphin zip by in the river, or a Kemp’s ridley sea turtle feeding near the jetties.

Matagorda’s marshes are a haven for birds, too, which flock to the area year-round, but especially during winter migration. More than 200 species have been spotted here, and Matagorda County has been number one on the North American Audubon Christmas Bird Count since 1997.

“It’s such a special place partly because of its unique geographic features, including the Colorado River, the Gulf, and the wetlands—each of which has its own ecological diversity,” says Danielle Wolfe, a program coordinator with LCRA Parks.

Throughout the marshes and along sandy beaches, visitors will see pelicans wading around piers with their gular pouches full of fish. The abundant birdlife also includes ospreys, warblers, terns, herons, egrets, black-necked stilts, and roseate spoonbills, which are a vibrant bubblegum-pink color, due to their shrimp diet. “My favorite is the belted kingfisher,” says Wolfe. “They can fly up to 36 mph, make their nest by digging burrows in the banks next to a body of water, and have a third eyelid that allows them to see underwater.”

When you’re ready to hit the water, head out onto the Colorado River near the jetties, where you can row alongside empty beaches and park your kayak in the sand for a bit of land exploration. All of the Texas coastline is considered public land, from the water to the dune line. After leaving your kayak on a sandy bank, walk down the jetties toward the Gulf, where you’ll find a wide-open beach full of seashells. Lightning whelks (our official state seashell), shark eye moon snails, and murexes are just a few of the shells found here. On a recent trip, I had the beach to myself, with thousands of shells lying in the sand in front of me, waiting to be admired.

While Texas beaches are open to the public for free, Matagorda Bay Nature Park gives visitors daily access to its 1,334 acres of protected land for a small admission fee. More than 900 acres of the park’s wetlands can be accessed through a locked gate, only for visitors going birding, kayaking, hiking, and more. The park also offers kayak rentals and birding events.

Where to Stay

You can stay at Matagorda Bay Nature Park, where 10 bungalows were built in 2023 right along the Colorado River. Accommodations include full kitchens and bathrooms, comfy living spaces, a gas grill, and private decks for watching the sunset. There are also four Airstream campers and 54 RV and campsites.

Where to Eat

Cassady’s is the local coffee shop and breakfast and lunch spot where I go for a brief break back into society and to check emails. Their coffee is great, and the Mata-Getdown Gorda is their signature drink: coffee with creamy caramel and dark chocolate. The menu is lengthy, but I love a stuffed flattie (a quesadilla with bacon, egg, hash browns, and cheese) for breakfast and one of the specialty sandwiches for lunch.

Snappers is a tented restaurant and small bar with some of the best local fried shrimp in the area, which comes straight from local shrimpers. Waterfront Restaurant is right on the marina, with down-home comfort fare and seafood like stuffed flounder and chicken fried steak. Coastal Que is typically open from Memorial Day to several weeks after Labor Day and serves Texas barbecue classics such as brisket, ribs, pork belly, sausage, and smoked chicken. And don’t forget Stanley’s General Store, the local gas station with breakfast tacos, pigs in a blanket, burgers, fried chicken, shrimp and oyster po’boys, and more.

When to Visit

The best times to visit Matagorda are spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) for cooler temperatures and fewer crowds. Spring also offers great fishing. Swimming and fishing are excellent in the summer months as well, but Texas can get extremely hot and humid, so take caution if traveling then. Bring plenty of water, bug spray, and SPF. August and September do offer crystal-clear waters and calm waves, however. “Winter is great for beachcombers because the north wind and lower tides push the water line further out, and fewer visitors on the beach allow one to find great treasures that might have otherwise been picked up if it were a different time of year,” says Wolfe.

What to Do

There are more than 50 miles of beach in Matagorda, many of which are available for swimming. The beach east of the Colorado River is open to vehicles, and the one to the west is only accessible by kayak or boat. Drive a distance down on the east side and you’re sure to find a quiet spot; head to the west of the Colorado River for beachcombing. Do not swim near the jetties, piers, or passes, as currents are strong in these areas. Fishing is plentiful as well, as is birding in and around Matagorda Bay Nature Park. The park also hosts an array of events, including beach crafts, guided birding and paddle trips, oyster education, and more—all for a small fee. 

In nearby Bay City, the Matagorda County Birding Nature Center encompasses 38 acres of wetlands, walking trails, picnic areas, woodlands, prairies, boardwalks, and gardens that you can explore seven days a week. An observation deck lets you see wildlife in their habitat, and the Colorado River offers easy access to launch a kayak. Also in Bay City, the Matagorda County Museum explores Matagorda County’s history with rotating exhibits and a permanent collection. See artifacts from the coastal Karankawa Indians and a cannon from the 17th-century La Belle ship, which wrecked in present-day Matagorda Bay in 1686. 

Matagorda’s ample shores are ripe for fishing, whether that’s in the Colorado River, Matagorda Bay, or in the wetlands. You can go offshore fishing with Reel Rush Charters and captain Michael Kubecka, where you can catch wahoo, shark, blue marlin, grouper, tuna, snapper, tarpon, swordfish, mahi, and more. Bay fishing can be organized with CM Charters and captain Chris McKinley.