What do Cristiano Ronaldo, Glenn Close, and ex–Dire Straits front man Mark Knopfler have in common? They all belong to Membresía la Tenada by Valduero, a single-winery club in Ribera del Duero, Spain, that bills itself as the world’s most exclusive. If you haven’t heard of it, you likely know one or two of its membership roster, which includes a veritable who’s who of acclaimed chefs, as well as Oscar-winning director Asghar Farhadi and novelist Ken Follett.
The club has grown slowly, by word of mouth, from 10 members at its founding in 2004 to about 300 today. But it’s no secret why such a vaunted group would want to join. While many top-tier American wineries are known for offering astounding VIP perks, Bodegas Valduero is among only a handful of European operations playing in the same space. The plush benefits include 20 complimentary dinners for up to 20 people at Valduero’s private restaurant, tours for you and your guests, and tastings with the proprietors.
To gain entry, all you have to do is buy a barrel of one of Valduero’s finest wines—lush red blends and Tempranillos that spend from two-and-a-half to nearly eight years aging. Prices start at about $7,200 and run to about $20,000. When the liquid is ready, you can have it poured into 300 standard bottles—or parcel it into larger-format vessels—before they’re custom-labeled and shipped to your cellar. Such personal touches are a big part of what helps this small boutique business punch above its weight.
“Our goal is to provide a personalized service for each of our members,” says Carolina García Viadero, who co-owns the winery with her sister, Yolanda, Valduero’s winemaker and technical director. “Our focus is not on exclusivity through wealth, but rather on delivering excellence.”
That attention to detail is seen in every element of the experience. When members come to visit their barrels, the sisters will lead them through a mile-long network of underground tunnels and caves, home to 3,500 oak vessels Valduero has in storage at any given time. At the end of the tunnel, a long, sloping hallway leads to the hilltop restaurant. Tradition dictates that each new member signs a barrel top—affixed with a brass plaque bearing their name—before it’s hung on the wall here.
Beyond this space lies La Tenada, the rustic private eatery the club is named after. It’s the Spanish word for “sheepcote”—a nod to the area’s agricultural history—but the purpose-built wood-and-stone structure has a welcoming and elegant interior. Inside, the menu devised by Yolanda includes the region’s beloved free-range lamb (cordero lechal) and other dishes that pair well with Valduero’s award-winning Tempranillo and Albillo Mayor. For those who may not be able to round up 20 friends for a wine-country repast, Valduero will host dinner for up to five guests in one of Madrid’s top restaurants, such as Charrúa, Tatel, or Ten con Ten.
But these services aren’t as beguiling as the wine itself. Glenn Close met the proprietors through a mutual friend and became a fan on her first visit. She tells Robb Report, “As I said to the sisters: ‘May my art age and endure as elegantly as your wines.’ ”Another member, Peruvian writer and Nobel Prize winner Mario Vargas Llosa, was more effusive. “It is an honor for me to be an associate member of this prestigious winery,” he says. “It keeps alive the grand tradition of wine—a fundamental pillar and inspiration of Western culture.”
Authors
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Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen
