In early 2024, the gardening world was rocked—not by the kind of snails that munch your lettuce, but by a viral sensation: the “Seed Snail.” Unlike its slow-moving namesakes, this gardening hack raced through Instagram and TikTok at high speed. Intrigued, I decided to try this method for myself that summer. It was by far the most seed-starting success I’ve ever had in 25 years of gardening, and I even added my own twist. Here’s how my experiment went and how to try this method yourself.
What Are Seed Snails?
Seed snails let you grow more seedlings in less space—something every plant lover craves. This method stacks seedlings vertically, like the structure of spiral herb gardens, encouraging healthier roots while reducing watering and eliminating the need for potting up seedlings as they grow.
Farida Sober, a home gardener in South Wales in the UK, began using the method to maximize seedling production, and when she shared the videos of her efforts on Instagram, the gardening world took notice.
“I didn’t have endless space, fancy equipment, or perfect conditions,” she says. “I had to find a way to grow food in a way that suited my reality. That’s how I ended up developing and popularizing the Seed Snail Method—it was born out of necessity, and it turned out to be a game-changer.”
Farida Sober
How Seed Snails Work
There are lots of benefits besides space-saving compared to conventional sowing in seed trays. Unlike traditional 2-inch-deep cells, the deeper rolls encourage long straight roots that are less likely to become rootbound. They also need watering less often and don’t require “potting up.” To give seedlings more space, you simply open the snail, add more soil, and roll it closed again. Lastly, the design keeps seedlings hydrated during their most vulnerable stage, boosting success rates.
That sold me on trying it on my urban Seattle lot. Unless you count microgreens, my previous indoor seed-starting attempts were iffy at best. Indoors, seed trays took up precious kitchen space while the room glowed purple for 16 hours a day, only to produce weak, leggy seedlings. Outdoors, if slugs or birds didn’t get them, I forgot to water them.
Excited to see this method for myself, I sowed my first batch outdoors in mid-June using Sober’s method, with a slight twist.
How to Make a Seed Snail
A seed snail requires a few materials: polyethylene wrap (the flexible foam used to protect appliances in shipping), potting mix, waterproof tape, and a tray or plastic pots for support.
Step 1: Cut Foam Wrap
Cut your wrap material into strips approximately 6 inches deep and at least 17 inches long. Spread a ½-inch layer of pre-moistened potting mix, leaving about ½ inch at the top to catch water and 4 inches on one side to allow for expansion.
Shallow-rooted or quick-sprouting crops may only need 4 inches, while long-standing crops like leeks would prefer 6.
Step 2: Roll the Material
Tightly roll up the strip, turn the snail upright, and secure it with waterproof tape (duct, packing, or painter’s tape).
Step 3: Plant the Seeds
Tamp down the soil, sow seeds at the proper depth, and mist with water. To keep them upright, stack them in a tray or place them inside plastic pots. Label each snail, and for extra insurance, write on the side.
Step 4: Cover and Care
Covering with plastic wrap can speed germination. Remove it once seeds sprout. Sober recommends top-watering until they sprout, and bottom-watering in the tray afterward. Open the snail to add soil if needed before planting out.
Step 5: Transplant Seedlings
When seedlings are outgrowing the snail’s top and bottom, it’s time to transplant them into the garden. Gently tease them apart, discarding spindly ones.
Putting Seed Snails to the Test
Since I started my seed snails mid-season, I chose fast-growing zinnias, sweet alyssum, and cosmos wrapped in polyethylene from my mailing supplies drawer. And because of my previous outdoor seed-starting struggles, I added my own twist—nestling the snails inside clear plastic tubs with holes drilled in them for ventilation. My thought was that the tubs would act as mini-greenhouses for added protection, and it worked!
I stationed the tubs in partial shade near my back door, where I could check on them regularly. It’s always key to keep an eye on moisture levels and weather. When temperatures neared 80°F, I removed the lid to prevent excessive heat buildup.
All three varieties germinated well and the seedlings were ready for transplanting in three weeks. They needed regular watering in high summer, but by September—often a quieter garden time—the backyard was brimming with bouquet-ready blossoms. This was hands down my most successful seed-starting experiment yet.
It seems gardeners worldwide are smitten with seed snails too, from Australia and Germany to Kentucky. Barbra-Sue Kowalski grows on 68 acres in Western Kentucky. She calls seed snails her new “favorite” growing method, sharing tips on YouTube and her blog.
“My favorite aspects are they take so much less space and no up-potting,” Kowalski says. She’s grown melons, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, flowers, tomatoes, and herbs with the method. “Everything has grown well.”
Her biggest tips? “Plant larger seeds at an appropriate depth to encourage stronger stems, plant only one type per snail, and keep them evenly watered.” She reuses waterproof grain sacks for her wraps.
Erica Browne Grivas
Eco-Friendlier Seed Snails: New Twists on the Trend
Perhaps like me, you’re wondering if more biodegradable materials can work for seed snails. Reusing single-use plastics can help reduce landfill waste, but gardening already relies heavily on plastic, and there are concerns about microplastics leaching into the soil.
As gardeners experiment with alternatives, some reuse bubble wrap or plastic wrap, while others opt for plastic-free options like burlap, newspaper, coco coir liner mats, and even fabric. Twine can also replace tape to secure the snails.
Sober acknowledges the dilemma of finding a plastic-free option that works. “Most biodegradable materials break down too quickly in a warm, damp environment,” she says. “Paper gets moldy, and natural fabrics hold too much water.”
When trialing alternative materials, consider their moisture retention. Just like different soil mixes and containers, they’ll have varying strengths, so watch how quickly the top inch of soil dries. For example, this month, I started lettuce indoors in corrugated paper at my kitchen window—the seeds germinated in about a week, but the soil is drying out faster than in last year’s polyethylene.
Next winter, I hope to combine seed snails with winter sowing to grow even more cold-tolerant annuals and perennials. If last summer’s experiment is any indication, my garden might be overflowing with seedlings—and I wouldn’t have it any other way.