During Cadwallader’s seven-year tenure, Mugler became the go-to brand for big-name performers and celebrities, including Beyoncé, Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion and Dua Lipa. Following in the founder’s footsteps, Cadwallader has also become known for his diverse and inclusive casting. When the house founder passed away in January 2022, Cadwallader spoke to Vogue Runway and Vogue Business global director Nicole Phelps about carrying on and adapting Mugler’s legacy for the future. “You just see the types of beauty that he was channelling. There are curvy people, trans performers and porn stars, and all of these different cultural elements collaging together to form this very open vision of beauty. And honestly, that’s my life,” he said.
During the pandemic, Cadwallader chose to direct a series of fashion films in lieu of shows. Mugler also switched to a see-now, buy-now approach, meaning the collections were available to buy at the same time the films went live. Mugler’s first IRL show post-pandemic took place in January 2023 at Paris’s La Villette park outside of the fashion calendar. The show carried over the cinematic feel of the films with the models, including Ziwe, Arca, Anok Yai, Paloma Elsesser and Debra Shaw, being followed by a camera while walking on the runway.
The brand followed the same strategy until SS25, when it staged a more pared-back, salon-style show in the Paris concert hall Le Trianon. Vogue Business went behind the scenes at the show, where the focus was on the clothes, as opposed to the large-scale, performance-heavy shows of the past.
L’Oréal doesn’t break out revenues of individual brands, but managing director Adrian Corsin told Vogue Business in September 2024 that Mugler fashion grew in high double digits for 2023, driven by Asia, a strong denim business and the launch of leather goods like the Spiral Curve bag. Under Corsin, who has led the fashion business since April 2023, Mugler pivoted away from the see-now, buy-now model and returned to the fashion calendar and a seasonal strategy.
“Having worked under some of the industry’s most prolific designers, Miguel boasts an incredible talent in tailoring, combined with a vision that is all his own. His love and knowledge of Mugler’s couture codes and heritage will be a limitless source of storytelling and help propel the house into the future,” said Corsin about the house’s new creative director.
Castro Freitas will join Mugler on 1 April. His debut show for Mugler will take place in September, during the high-stake SS26 season, which will see a number of debuts, including Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Demna at Gucci, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Mark Thomas at Carven.