The Distillers Advocating for Radical Transparency in Whiskey Making

Over the past few decades, a counterinsurgency has taken root in America, pushing back against factory farms and overprocessed food: a recognition that the journey from farm to table is usually industrialized and impersonal. The same can be said for American whiskey, which is often made in factory like distilleries owned by multinational conglomerates. The Estate Whiskey Alliance, however, wants to elevate distilleries that choose a different path, by tracing a direct line from soil to bottle and offering people a deeper connection to the spirit at a time of economic uncertainty for the industry. 

The EWA was founded in 2023 by the University of Kentucky as an effort to showcase whiskey made with locally sourced grains and sustainable methods. The organization’s definition of estate whiskey is simple: Production steps from milling to maturation must occur at the estate distillery, and at least two thirds of all mash-bill grains need to be grown on land it owns or controls. Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark distillery is one of the group’s founding members, and eighth-generation whiskey maker Rob Samuels believes in the importance of reminding people that this spirit is, in fact, an agricultural product. “We know that healthy soil translates to better ingredients, richer flavor, and a healthier environment,” he says. “The EWA’s new certification signals to the industry and consumers that provenance, traceability, and a commitment to locally sourced ingredients matter.” 

Maker’s Mark’s new Star Hill Farm Whisky, the distillery’s first wheat whiskey, will be the initial bottle
to carry the EWA certification, but others are on the way. Frey Ranch, which makes grain-to-glass bourbon and rye in Nevada, is also a member, and cofounder Colby Frey says the program will underscore the craft and provenance of outstanding whiskey. “We hope to see a greater awareness and understanding of the intrinsic link between American farmers and American-whiskey production,” he says. Master distiller Joe O’Sullivan at Minden Mill, another Nevada distillery, adds that estate certification furthers the concept of terroir in whiskey. “[It] allows consumers to connect with the land, the people, and the traditions that shape each unique expression,” he says. “That ultimately offers a deeper appreciation of the whiskey.” 

In the end, the EWA hopes that its new program will resonate with consumers looking for transparency and traceability in their food and drink. And, most importantly, it will yield some high-quality whiskeys that can stand out in a heavily saturated market.