“The story that I love to tell with the brand is that idea of something being sculpted, but then also having a soft, romantic, artisanal side to it,” said Jonathan Simkhai over Zoom. This season, that meant embellishing everything from the swishy fringe on a black midiskirt to the outer seams of wide-leg trousers with sizable gold ball studs—hammered for a more delicate looking finish. Design codes that have become brand signatures are present as well, namely in the form of dresses in juxtaposing fabrications. A tailored, asymmetrical blazer flares into an airy pleated skirt; a structured peplum bodice morphs into a light, plissé midi. Real leather—which Simkhai has favored recently over faux—was employed for a fit-and-flare miniskirt, slouchy oversized jackets, and half-moon shoulder bags in suede.
“When I started this collection, I was really thinking about why our customers come back season after season,” Simkhai said. “She loves exploring with fabrication, but then she also loves the sexy moments.” She’ll find them in this season’s selection of open knits, which include slim skirts featuring built-in knickers. Two dresses, one strapless in chocolate brown and another long-sleeved in light aqua, reflect Simkhai’s affinity for open weaves and beading. “It’s guipure, then it’s lined in georgette, and then this beading technique is applied directly onto the guipure,” he said of the pieces, which are festooned with sequins, paillettes, and hanging beads.
White (for a mini halter dress) and butter yellow (for a strapless A-line number) are predictable resort collection colors, but Simkhai turned to something a bit more unexpected for suiting. As he and his team were debating between black and navy for a pinstripe suit with tack stitch details, he suggested mahogany. A pleasing choice.