Jeweler Thelma West on Her New Italian Hotel, Collecting Rolexes, and Sourcing Gems

Flying from Lagos to London for her first family vacation was an eye-opening experience for a young Thelma West—and not just because of the culture shock. “There were a lot of us bursting out of the plane,” she says of her parents and four siblings. “I always wondered how [my mother] did it!” 

Though she returned to the U.K. to study engineering at 16, a lifelong fascination with the diamonds in her mom’s jewelry box led her to HRD Antwerp, a leading school for gem graders. After working internationally as a gemstone buyer, she moved to London for a job as a diamond grader in 2003. And in 2012, when a friend asked for help turning an old diamond into a new ring, she started her eponymous jewelry house. Its bespoke service and focus on gems of impressive size and quality have earned her global acclaim and a list of famous fans: Rihanna, Zendaya, Lil Nas X, and Angela Bassett have all worn her designs. 

Together with her husband, Naples native and former Apple executive Stefano Liotta, West opened the doors to a boutique hotel, Casina Cinquepozzi, in Puglia this spring. The masterfully renovated property takes its name from the five wells on its 40-acre estate, which also produces its own wine and olive oil. In a sense, the project wasn’t that different from crafting her distinctive jewels. “I work a lot with old pieces where I have to take the best bits and give it new life,” she says. “When we discovered this place, the mission wasn’t to change it.” Here, she shares the other elements of her well-lived life that she wouldn’t alter. 

What’s the first thing you do in the morning? 

I step outside. In Puglia, it’s simple: I just go for a walk through the vineyard or the olive grove. I sort of get lost enjoying that silence. In London, we have a room called the nest. It opens up to the gardens, and I usually step out there for a few minutes, and that does good. 

What have you done recently for the first time? 

I harvested grapes for wine for the first time! And let me tell you, there’s something powerful about working with your hands and seeing the results in the bottle. 

What are your favorite websites? 

So, it’s 1stDibs for antique treasures and vintage finds. Then I’ve got this architectural website called Dezeen. And Nataal, for African news, just to stay connected to that cultural perspective. 

What apps do you use the most? 

I hate to say this, but WhatsApp to stay connected. Instagram for, I guess you would say, inspiration, getting lost, discovering what people are up to. And then Notes. I love Notes, for the million ideas that come into my head.

Do you have any personal rituals? 

Checking in on my siblings. Not a day goes by that I don’t. They’re in Nigeria, in Lagos. They bring a lot of joy into my life, so I make sure to leave room for them, regardless of how busy the day gets. 

What do you do that’s still analog? 

Sketch. I love to sketch by hand. It’s pencil, papers, and wonky circles. That’s my best way to get ideas out. 

What do you most crave at the end of the day? 

Silence. Usually silence, and time to meditate. 

How do you find calm? 

I find time to escape. And that doesn’t mean actually going somewhere far. It could literally be me going up to the nest. So that’s my escape: just finding those little pockets during the day where I can zone out or reflect at my own pace. 

Who is your guru? 

Melanie Grant. She’s a friend, and she is my mentor, and one of those people I can call and just be my absolute self with. It doesn’t matter what kind of day I’m having. She gets it. 

What’s your favorite cocktail, and how do you make it? 

I don’t make it, but I do have a cocktail once in a while, and it’s a lychee martini. Hakkasan in London makes a really good lychee martini. 

What’s the most recent thing you’ve added to your collection? 

Ceramics by this Cameroonian artist based in Lagos. Her name is Nathalie Djakou, and she makes the most incredible forms. 

What’s the most recent thing you regret not buying? 

That happens a lot, because I fall in love with a lot of things. Just today, it was a dress from my friend’s store, Colibri. As I walked away, I’m thinking, “Why are you not buying that? You love it so much!” 

What’s the most impressive dish you cook? 

Jollof rice. That’s, like, a classic. It’s nice and spicy—the balance and spice has to be right. I love a grilled fish and fennel. And my daughters love my fish pie. Apparently, I do the best fish pie. 

Who is your dealer, and what do they source for you? 

Murat Atan. He’s in the diamond world. He is a gem whisperer, and he can find anything. He has this super detailed eye, so when he sees a diamond, he knows what it can be. 

What is your exercise routine, and how often do you do it? 

Pilates twice a week. I try to run, but I don’t do it as much as I should. And then I play tennis a couple of times a month. 

How do you get to sleep? 

It’s nice self-care. My niece calls it an everything shower, so you can take time, rather than rushing in the morning. Then I try to put my phone away and just get lost in a book. 

What does success look like to you? 

It’s freedom. Freedom to be yourself, freedom to express yourself. And finding joy in the things that you accomplish. 

If you could learn a new skill, what would it be? 

I’d love to fly a plane. I don’t know why, but I’m always a little bit jealous of pilots. 

How much do you trust your gut instinct? 

One hundred percent. From my personal life to work stuff. If I feel something, that’s it. We’re going for it. With the Casina, it’s the same thing. Falling in love straight away and understanding that I can make this work. 

Are you wearing a watch? How many do you own? 

I’m not wearing a watch, but I do love Rolexes. I have two: One is the Presidential, because I love the weight of it. [I saw one on] Victoria Beckham something like 15 years ago, and I really liked the way that it hung off her wrist. And then an Air King. 

What in your skincare routine is indispensable? 

The Jo Malone Wood Sage and Sea Salt body butter. Oh, my God. That just makes me feel so good, and nicely moisturized, and ready. 

When was the last time you completely unplugged? 

Over Easter. That was very nice, because we actually stayed at home. We just made the schedules lighter, just to get some intentional downtime with the kids. 

What’s your favorite hotel? 

Vila Joya, in Portugal. It’s a small boutique hotel.T hey’ve got a Michelin-star restaurant on-site. It’s right on the beach. And I’m a surfer, so yeah, it’s for me. 

Drive or be driven? 

Drive. 

What’s always in your hand luggage? 

A good lip balm, a sketchbook, and a pen. A small bottle of perfume—again, Wood Sage & Sea Salt. So obsessed. And pictures of my girls. 

How would you describe your look? 

I don’t like a lot of fuss, but I am drawn to sparkly things. Embellished dresses or embellished tops. I want to be comfortable, and I want to be able to dance if I need to dance. So I would say fun, eclectic, sometimes minimalistic. 

What is the car you are most attached to? 

My Maserati [Grecale Folgore], the fully electric S.U.V. That is my baby. 

What is your email etiquette? 

Direct, concise. I try to be polite. But sometimes, if I have to be very direct or to the point, I might forget to be polite. 

What’s worth paying for? 

Craftsmanship. 

Last streaming binge? 

Say Nothing. It’s the one about the I.R.A. I was skeptical to start, but it was absolutely incredible. And then Harlem, Zero Day, and Workin’ Moms. I’m watching that for the second time. 

What kind of music makes you happy? 

I love all kinds of music—it’s a mix. It depends on the mood, but mostly I would say Afrobeats. Somehow, no matter what I’m feeling, it gets me going.