If you haven’t been to the Amalfi Coast before, there’s a reason it is all over your Instagram feed every summer. One of the most recognizable and beautiful coastlines in the world, this winding stretch of Italy truly encapsulates la dolce vita. On a recent trip with friends, I was on the hunt for a vacation rental that was as much of a destination as the area itself. After plenty of research, we decided to make Sorrento our home base for six days, eager to take in the sights, laze away on beaches, and eat as much gelato as our bodies could handle.
Rolling up the hill to this six-bedroom villa felt like we were stuck in a movie (perhaps Under the Tuscan Sun, or the Italian stretch of Normal People). Each of the six rooms was generously sized and came with its own en suite bathroom, as well as large windows, blackout shades, comfortable mattresses and linens, and places to store and hang our clothes. But it wasn’t the interiors that originally caught our eye while booking—it was the view. Perched almost on top of a hill and overlooking the village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, about a 25-minute drive from Sorrento, the view from Villa Orologio felt all-encompassing, from the village to the nearby mountains to the Gulf of Naples in the distance. We spent most of our time on the property enjoying breakfast, dinner, and each other’s company, seated around the large table under the awning on the terrace or on the lounge chairs around the private pool.
While the plethora of white marble inside did come across as a bit sterile in images, in person, it felt completely different, like the perfect understated, minimalist backdrop to not overshadow the exceptional terrace and views. The amenities and bathrooms were all modern, and the AC was strong (something we Americans very much appreciated). One of the six bedrooms was technically an unattached studio with a separate bedroom and bathroom located just a few feet from the main house, ideal for couples or small families that want a bit more privacy and space. The other five bedrooms were located on three different levels in the main house. We made good use of the green and marble kitchen, and were able to cook up a few meals which we happily enjoyed around the 12-seat table on the terrace with a couple of glasses of wine.
The rental itself is managed by a nearby hotel, which came in handy a few times, like when a large storm knocked out our Wi-Fi and power and the hotel staff were able to drive over and give us updates, provide complimentary umbrellas, and book us a taxi down to Sorrento when our phones weren’t working. Prior to our arrival, they stocked our kitchen with a few ingredients we requested (unfortunately, either due to the remote-ish location or the language barrier, they weren’t able to get everything).
The nearby village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi was about a 15-minute walk downhill, and was a great spot that was a bit removed from the throngs of tourists in Sorrento. You could also catch a bus down to Sorrento here if desired. In the village, we found delicious gelato, a Michelin-recognized restaurant, a grocery store for light ingredients, and a few adorable shops.
One thing to keep in mind is that public transportation here can be rather lackadaisical. Buses arrive when they want, not necessarily on schedule, and coast to a stop sometimes here, sometimes there, depending on the day. If you plan to stay at this villa, either bake in plenty of time to get to and from your destination, rent a car (if you’re willing to brave the winding cliffs and steep drop-offs), or simply stay on site and enjoy the views. Another thing to note was that one of the bathrooms got a sudden infestation of ants on the last day, which I’m sure would have been quickly eradicated by the staff if requested, but as it was the last day and we were gone for most of it, we simply left.
After a long day exploring Pompeii, hanging around Positano, or traversing the streets of Amalfi, this large, comfortable spot and its remarkable outdoor space beckoned us home like a lighthouse. We’d race up the hill from the bus stop to catch the last dregs of the sunset from our villa with our feet in the pool and gelato in hand.