This neighborhood guide is curated by one of our New York City–based editors who calls it home.
The Upper East Side is a classic. It has never chased the trends, which is exactly what makes it cool. In a city of constant change, there exists here a sense of timeless familiarity, where you can still find the quintessential New York City immortalized in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Sex and the City, and, yes, Gossip Girl.
Which brings me to my next point, that the posh Upper East Side most out-of-towners are familiar with is but one slice of this deceptively large neighborhood, beginning at 59th Street and ending (by most accounts) at 96th Street. Within these borders are three micro-neighborhoods—Lenox Hill, Yorkville, and Carnegie Hill—each with their own distinct vibe. I recommend all visitors stroll past the blocks of Gilded Age townhomes and window-shop along Madison, but I also suggest venturing past Park Avenue for a stop into the community’s longtime mom-and-pop establishments and local favorites. It is here you will find such gems as Anthony Bourdain’s favorite pastrami sandwich, a South African wine bar with a killer happy hour, old-school Italian bastions patronized by the likes of Joan Didion and Paul McCartney, and quiet park benches overlooking the East River.
While I won’t go so far as to claim that the Upper East Side is undergoing a radical transformation, I do believe it is in the midst of a golden age. Relatively low rents on the east end have drawn a wave of younger professionals and creatives uptown (a camp that this writer, a downtown girl until recently, belongs to). On their heels came hot openings such as Chez Fifi and Hoexter’s, injecting a welcome jolt of energy into what can be an at times stiff dining and nightlife scene. To accurately capture this deliciously delicate balance of UES new and old, classic and cool, I’ve also tapped Emily Adler, Traveler’s social media editor and a lifelong Upper East Sider, as well as Taylor Eisenhauer, our editorial ops manager and an UES denizen of five-plus years, for their go-to neighborhood joints. Together we’ve mapped out how to spend a perfect day in the Upper East Side.
9 a.m. Coffee walk through Central Park
Central Park is nothing short of magical. You could spend an entire blissful day walking, biking, and picnicking across its 843 acres, and if you have time to spare, I recommend you do just that. For the purposes of this itinerary, I suggest an early stroll for fewer crowds and soft morning light (the park’s off-leash hours are 6 a.m. to 9 a.m., so beware of getting caught in a game of fetch). Before setting off, find a bench on which to nibble a pastry or bagel and sip a coffee of your choice—solid options including Orwashers (for pastries), Breads Bakery (for the famous babka), Butterfield Market (for take-out coffee, smoothies, and wraps), and Sable’s (for fresh bagels, lox, and other smoked fish).
My go-to Central Park walking route begins at the 77th Street entrance, and from there it’s a quick jaunt to the Kerbs Boathouse (for those traveling with young children, the remote-controlled model sailboat races here are a joy to partake in and watch), and the life-size Central Park Boathouse (rowboat rentals open at 10 a.m., but in my opinion, they are best romanticized from afar). Then follow the pathway to the Bethesda Fountain, where musicians and snake charmers enchant, and up the stairs to walk down “the Mall,” a promenade lined with gorgeous American elms, before looping back to where you started. If you prefer an afternoon picnic or Frisbee toss, Sheep Meadow, complete with striking skyline views and people watching galore, is the place to be when the sun is out. If a brisk walk or jog is more your speed, the Reservoir running track between 86th and 96th Streets is a 1.5-mile loop with panoramic city and water views. No strollers or dogs allowed—an UES rarity. The Conservatory Garden is well worth venturing up to 105th Street in East Harlem for its spectacular six acres of manicured lawns and floral displays, from the Korean chrysanthemums in autumn to the endless rows of colorful tulips come spring.