Even boho queen Isabel Marant has caught the minimalist bug. In a new twist for the brand, the studio took a more architectural approach to the pre-fall collection, leaning in on straight-up, classic shapes and giving the clothes attitude through washes, texture, and fringe.
During a showroom visit, artistic director Kim Bekker observed that, when times get tough, what the consumer really wants is a sense of simplicity and reassurance. “The need for authenticity has always been a big part of who we are,” she said. “These are clothes that look real and lived-in, even if they’re new.”
While Marant may be known for boho prints, this time the duo decided to mostly forego those in favor of openwork knits. A faux suede coat was treated to look faded; an artisanal looking one came delicately fringed and punctuated with patent leather tabs. As in the men’s lineup, earthy tones of ecru, beige, cognac, midnight blue and black dominated, punched up here and there with shots of red or orange.
Vintage-y flourishes amped up contrast, for example on a feather-light ivory jersey bustier dress with a lace-like top, or a long black slip dress with a ruffled hem that gave it more weight and also more movement. Knitwear was by turns tailored or tactile and slouchy. Coats were cut for ease, many with large enough pockets that a wearer could step out bag-free. Though some pieces—notably the jeans with extra metal buckles—felt a bit forced, other pieces, such as a faux fur coat and gaucho boots heavily embellished with metal, placed the lineup squarely in Marant territory.