The House of Dagmar has always cultivated a connection to architecture and design. That made WSA’s Test Kitchen, outfitted with glass tables and gleaming metal-framed furniture, an ideal location for the breakfast presentation of the brand’s fall collection, which creative director Sofia Wallenstam brought over to New York from Stockholm.
An art collector herself, Wallenstam explained that a sculpted top was inspired by a Matthias van Arkel piece that hangs in her own home. That the piece is the brand’s current best-seller is interesting, as only a few seasons ago women were going crazy for Dagmar’s oversize blazers. Tailoring remains central to this brand’s offering—see a natty charcoal pinstripe three-piece ensemble (coat and pantsuit) and lots of shirting. But a new, welcome softness has come into play, as seen in a chiffon bow blouse paired with a straight-lined leather coat/coat dress.
More nuanced is the way that Wallenstam and team have carried through the circle theme introduced for fall 2024 and done away with last season’s stiffness by a process of deflation. A pair of wool-felt pants with an elastic, track-suit style waist was paired with a blouson jacket of the same material that has a beautiful side-silhouette, revealing its circular pattern. A cashmere cardigan cocooned in a pouf of chiffon takes cozy to cosmopolitan.