The boat slows at Lundy Island. Situated off the North Devon coast, where the Atlantic crashes into the Bristol Channel, Lundy rises from the sea. A lonely granite sentinel, three miles long and half a mile wide, with nothing but ocean between itself and the far shores of North America, it’s a place where the wind carries salt and history, and the horizon around us feels endless.
We peel off layers, and replace them with fins and snorkeling masks, waiting for Rees’s signal to enter the water. I jump in and my eyes adjust to what lies beow.
Surprisingly, the water is impressively clear, turquoise even, and quickly an Atlantic grey seal swims up to us. He’s impossibly cute, his big, curious eyes locking onto mine with a mix of surprise and calm familiarity.
Not long after, I notice a handful of shimmering jellyfish that drift by me like living lanterns, their long trailing tentacles streaming behind like silk ribbons in a breeze. Dolphins, porpoises, sharks, puffins, and whales also live here—and over the next three hours we silently search, waiting to see who else might emerge. My heart is set on basking sharks and blue sharks, but neither make an appearance, this time; yet on our way to shore, several pods of dolphins flit through the waves surrounding our boat. Everyone on board savors the moment.
Back on shore, I peel off my wetsuit, and thank Rees for the experience. After a glimpse of this underwater world, my imagination is racing. “There’s nothing more rewarding than guiding someone through the same epiphany: that the sea they’ve known all their life is full of mystery, magic, and wild beauty,” says Rees. “Our goal is to introduce as many people as possible to the wonders of our marine world here in Wales and to spark lifetimes of underwater adventure.” I, for one, will never look at this coastline the same way again.
How to book a Celtic Deep experience
Celtic Deep offers single- and multi-day experiences, largely from April to October. Based on what wildlife you’re hoping to see and interact with, it’s best to check season-specific trips to get the most out of your adventure. Expect Atlantic grey seals and puffins from April to July and bluefin tuna and minke and long-finned pilot whales toward the end of August and September. A minimum age requirement of 16+ (with an adult) is standard, however shorter family friendly trips with children 10+ and 12+ are also available.
Trips range from $150-$500 per adult with a 6% booking fee added to the total. Celtic Deep has a full stock of rental equipment for everything you need to get in the water and stay warm. A rental request equipment form can be filled out when booking, and full gear hire is available for $70 per person per day.
Getting to Pembrokeshire
Pembrokeshire is easily reached from London, and coastal cities like Cardiff and Bristol. Daily trains operate from London Paddington Station to Pembroke with an average travel time of 5 hours and 15 minutes on the fastest trains (starting from $60 for an off-peak ticket). Buses depart from London Victoria Station to Pembroke and will get you there in just under 7 hours (from $25). Make sure to book in advance for better pricing.
Where to stay
Grove of Narberth: This lovable boutique hotel was once a dilapidated country house—now, it’s a feat in upcycling with chic interiors, exceptional hospitality, and sustainability commitments. All their energy is 100% renewable, 80% of all the produce they use comes from their two acres of kitchen gardens, and vegetable waste and coffee grindings are composted on site. Each of the 25 rooms and suites here offer guests total tranquillity set amongst 26 acres of woodland, gardens and rolling meadows.
Roch Castle Hotel: Dating back to the 12th century, Roch Castle is straight out of a fairytale and set within Pembrokeshire’s Coastal National Park. With rolling hills on one side and sweeping sea views on the other, Wales’ rugged coastline is at your fingertips.