It’s a truism that to really get to know a place, you should sample the local food. That’s especially accurate of Bermuda, notes Mikaela Ian, a writer and PR professional who has celebrated all aspects of the island’s culinary scene in print and on camera. “Bermuda’s cuisine isn’t just about taste,” she notes. “It’s about history, memory, and identity.”
For Bermuda, identity begins with location, amid an azure ocean that harbors a wealth of fresh seafood, notably rockfish, amberjack, wahoo, and tuna. Meals here often begin with the country’s famous fish chowder, a spicy tomato-based stew seasoned with local accents like Outerbridge’s sherry pepper sauce and a dash of Gosling’s rum.
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That dish may be followed by Bermuda’s iconic fish sandwich—a perfectly fried fish fillet topped with cole slaw, a tomato slice, and tartar sauce on raisin bread (with a dash of sherry pepper sauce, of course). Every restaurant has its own rendition, and every islander has their favorite spot to enjoy it. Some of the most renowned versions can be found at off-the-beaten-track Art Mel’s Spicy Dicy, Seaside Grill, Mamma Mia in Hamilton Parish, and Lost In The Triangle in Warwick.
Given Bermuda’s British connections, you won’t be surprised to find pub fare—fish and chips, bangers and mash, or steak and mushroom pie—readily available. But you’ll also discover dishes that reveal African heritage or the Portuguese roots of red bean soup and Azorean octopus stew.
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Don’t neglect Bermuda’s national drink: Sailors around the world are known to toast their friends with a glass of dark ‘n’ stormy, which combines dark rum with ginger beer and a garnish of lime. Another cocktail with island connections is the rum swizzle, invented in the venerable Swizzle Inn, where the ceiling is hung with thousands of business cards and dollar bills left by departing patrons. The drink blends Gosling’s Black Seal and Amber rums, pineapple and lemon juices, fruit liqueurs, and falernum syrup. Gosling’s is a Bermuda institution, founded in 1806 and carried on through eight generations. You can find its wares at the company’s wine and spirits shop in Hamilton.
You can also sip rum cocktails—including inventive ones like a loquat daiquiri—at casual beach bars, upscale restaurants, and swanky lounges that evoke Bermudian history. The Hamilton Princess’s Intrepid bar, for example, is named after Sir William (“Intrepid”) Stephenson, the intelligence agent based at that hotel during World War II and whose real-life work inspired the fictional James Bond.
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Bermuda’s cuisine is not just about the past. Culinary aficionados here look to the future with restaurateurs who embrace sustainability and the farm-to-table movement. “The island’s food scene is evolving excitingly,” says Jamari Douglas, vice president of marketing, public relations, and communications at the Bermuda Tourism Authority. “Chefs are taking our traditions and elevating them, creating something fresh and yet deeply rooted in our culture.”
At the award-winning Huckleberry restaurant, Chef Damian Griffith uses fresh, locally sourced ingredients to shape a menu that blends European brasserie style with Bermudian flavors. And patrons of The Cloud, where the rooftop location reveals a panoramic waterfront view, can order a range of dishes that incorporate flavorful fusion touches.
In short, Bermuda’s culinary riches reflect the creativity and innovation that extend throughout every aspect of the island’s culture.