A fine-ding shaped hole was left in San Francisco’s restaurant scene when Lord Stanley closed this spring. First opened in 2015, the restaurant snatched a Michelin star within a year (which it held until 2020) but a decade later, owners Carrie and Rupert Blease were ready for ventures new.
Fortunately, those ventures new have arrived: along with Tommy Halvorson of The Fire Society, the Bleases have opened Wolfsbane. Occupying the site once held by Halvorson’s Serpentine restaurant, Wolfsbane sits in SF’s defiantly up-and-coming Dogpatch neighborhood – quickly becoming one of the city’s most exciting culinary hotspots.
Named after a herb that, although very much poisonous to humans, will deter vampires and werewolves according to folklore, the restaurant is billing itself as a ‘natural gathering place, a welcoming hub for food lovers that fosters balance, connection and a shared sense of humanity.’ Like its predecessor, Wolfsbane is attempting to bridge the gap between formal and casual, and become a space to cherish fine food without pretense.
The kitchen is helmed by Rupert Blease, who counts Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and Per Se in his resume. Reflecting this, the nine-course tasting menu will be precise and seasonally led, with a focus on Californian ingredients. The dishes will rotate, but opening highlights have included cabbage with a house buttermilk (an evolution of a beloved Lord Stanley classic); razor clam ceviche; and Pain aus Jus – another Lord Stanley evolution that teams silky red wine sauce with a toasted piece of toasted house sourdough and cultured butter.
Accompanying is an eclectic wine list by sommelier Louisa Smith (also previously of Lord Stanley). Prioritizing lesser known grapes and producers, the list showcases local labels as well as a few bottles from Eastern France and Switzerland. There is a wine pairing (and a seasonal, housemade non-alc version), but wines are available by the glass and bottle, too.
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Leading the design was Seth Boor of Boor Architects of San Francisco. Intentionally creating different ways to enjoy the restaurant, Wolfsbane has three distinct seating areas: the 18-seat main dining room; The Den, a 20-person private dining area; and The Burrow, an intimate booth space, seating just six. Breaking down barriers between kitchen and dining room, you’ll find that chefs will often serve dishes directly, with plenty of tableside presentation.
Wolfsbane, 2495 Third Street, San Francisco, CA 94107, wolfsbanesf.com